Clothing

Clothing is in Church Monument Details.

Belts

Maiden's Face Buckle

After 1423. St Peter's Church Elford. Monument to John Stanley 1423-1474. Early Plate Bascinet Period. Maiden's Face Buckle. Eagle and Baby Crest; the legend associated with Sir John's descent from his ancestor, Sir Thomas Latham, whose wanted his barren wife to adopt his illegitimate son so he placed the baby in a nearby eagle's nest. His wife was delighted with this 'miracle' and took the child as her own.
Historic England states ... "Knight of circa 1370, alabaster, with bogus Gothic inscription by Richardson to Sir John Stanley, died 1474".
Mark Downing, President of the Church Monuments Society states on FB ... My research concludes c.1410. On a modern alabaster tomb-chest in the north-east corner of the south aisle. Stebbing Shaw quotes the inscription and expenses by Humphrey Stanley who probably acquired the effigy from a dissolved monastic house, with the inscription added c.1540 by possibly a Burton-on-Trent workshop. Restored and re-cut by Richardson in 1848/49. He states that he renewed the eagle crest, parts of the basinet, aventail, left arm, gauntlets, grip of the dagger, rowel spurs, spur straps, first part of the inscription and tomb-chest. Inscription on the right side of the slab: Orate pro aia d’ni Joh’is Stanley milit quondam d’ni de pype clyfton caumpuyle elforde et stotfolde et hui’ Cantarie et capelle fundator’ Anno d’ni Mil’simo CCCCMO Septuagesimo quarto. It is worth commenting that the rapier sword was not introduced until the sixteenth century and that this sword was cut into the slab when the inscription was added.

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Cap of Maintenance

Yorkshire Rebellion

Wriothesley's Chronicle Henry VII. 1489. This yeare the Kinge (31) sent manye knightes with seaven thowsand men into Brytane.
Th' Earle of Northumberlande (40) slayne in the Northe.
A capp of mayntenance brought from Rome to the Kinge (31).

Around 1510 Meynnart Wewyck Painter 1460-1525 is believed to have painted the portrait of Henry VII King England and Ireland 1457-1509.Around 1520 Unknown Painter. Netherlands. Portrait of Henry VII King England and Ireland 1457-1509.

On 20 Sep 1543 Thomas Manners 1st Earl Rutland 1492-1543 (51) died. He was buried in the Chancel of St Mary the Virgin Church Bottesford. Garter Robes with his Leg Garter.
Henry Manners 2nd Earl Rutland 1526-1563 (16) succeeded 2nd Earl Rutland 3C 1525, 13th Baron Ros Helmsley. Margaret Neville Countess Rutland -1559 by marriage Countess Rutland.
Chest with Weepers. Her feet on a Griffin.
In 1551 Eleanor Paston Countess Rutland 1495-1551 (56) died.
Monument sculpted by Richard Parker of Burton on Trent. Leg Garter. Cap of Maintenance.

Diary of Henry Machyn October 1553. 05 Oct 1553. The v day of October the Qwuen('s) (37) grace rod unto Westmynster chyrche, and ther her grace hard masse of the Holy-gost, and ther wher ij bysshopes; on delevered her the shepter and odur thyng. Her grace rod in her parlement robes, and all the trumpeters blohyng a-for them all; and so, after her grace had hard masse, they whent to the Parlement howsse all to-geyther, and the yerle of Devonshyre (26) bare the sworde, and the yerle of Westmorland (28) bare the cape of mayntenans.

Diary of Henry Machyn November 1554. 12 Nov 1554. The xij day of November the Kyng (27) and the Quen (38) rod unto Westmynster chyrche to the masse of the Holy-gost, and after masse to the parlement-howsse; and all the bysshopes and the lordes in ther parlement robes, with trompeters blohyng, and all the harolds in ther cote armurs, and the juges in ther robes; the yerle of Penbroke (53) bare the kyng('s) sword, and the yerle of Comberland (41) bare the quen('s) sword, and the yerle of Shrowsbery (54) bare the kyng('s) cape of mantenance, and the yerle of Arundell (42) bare the quen('s) cape of mantenance; and a-for them rod to-gether my lord chansheler (71) and my lord tressorer (71) in ther parlement robes.

John Evelyn's Diary 02 March 1665. 02 Mar 1665. I went with his Majesty (34) into the lobby behind the House of Lords, where I saw the King (34) and the rest of the Lords robe themselves, and got into the House of Lords in a corner near the woolsack, on which the Lord Chancellor sits next below the throne: the King (34) sat in all the regalia, the crown-imperial on his head, the sceptre and globe, etc. The Duke of Albemarle (56) bore the sword, the Duke of Ormond (54), the cap of dignity. The rest of the Lords robed in their places:—a most splendid and august convention. Then came the Speaker and the House of Commons (48), and at the bar made a speech, and afterward presented several bills, a nod only passing them, the clerk saying, Le Roy le veult, as to public bills, as to private, Soit faite commeil est desirè. Then, his Majesty (34) made a handsome but short speech, commanding my Lord Privy Seal (59) to prorogue the Parliament, which he did, the Chancellor (56) being ill and absent. I had not before seen this ceremony.

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Chimere

Chimere. A garment worn by Anglican bishops in choir dress, and, formally as part of academic dress.

Around 1636 Anthony Van Dyck Painter 1599-1641 (36). Portrait of William Laud Archbishop of Canterbury 1573-1645 (62). Wearing a black Chimere over his white Rochet.

Around 1636 Anthony Van Dyck Painter 1599-1641. Portrait of William Laud Archbishop of Canterbury 1573-1645. Wearing a black Chimere over his white Rochet.

Damask

Female Headwear

Low Rounded Neckline

On 25 Feb 1387 John Grey aka Marmion 1343-1387 (44) died in Spain. In 1400 Elizabeth St Quentin 1347-1400 (53) died.
Monument in St Nicholas Church West Tanfield. Camail and Jupon Period. Lancastrian Esses Collar. Hip Belt. Feathered Crest on Great Helm. Angels Supporting Pillow. His bascinet has decorated edges with the camail appearig to attach inside the bascinet. Decorated flat band. She wearing a unusual headress which appears to be a cross between Gabled Headress and Bongrace. Her dress long with a Low Rounded Neckline and appears to be decoated with an armorial: vair at the top, chevrons at the bottom, which may be Marmion or a variation of.

Male Hats

Beaver

Diary of Samuel Pepys 17 August 1663. 17 Aug 1663. Up, and then fell into discourse, my wife and I to Ashwell, and much against my will I am fain to express a willingness to Ashwell that she should go from us, and yet in my mind I am glad of it, to ease me of the charge. So she is to go to her father this day.
And leaving my wife and her talking highly, I went away by coach with Sir J. Minnes (64) and Sir W. Batten (62) to St. James's, and there attended of course the Duke (29).
And so to White Hall, where I met Mr. Moore, and he tells me with great sorrow of my lord's being debauched he fears by this woman at Chelsey, which I am troubled at, and resolve to speak to him of it if I can seasonably.
Thence home, where I dined, and after dinner comes our old mayde Susan to look for a gorgett that she says she has lost by leaving it here, and by many circumstances it being clear to me that Hannah, our present cook-mayde, not only has it, but had it on upon her necke when Susan came in, and shifted it off presently upon her coming in, I did charge her so home with it (having a mind to have her gone from us), that in a huff she told us she would be gone to-night if I would pay her her wages, which I was glad and my wife of, and so fetched her her wages, and though I am doubtful that she may convey some things away with her clothes, my wife searching them, yet we are glad of her being so gone, and so she went away in a quarter of an hour's time. Being much amused at this to have never a maid but Ashwell, that we do not intend to keep, nor a boy, and my wife and I being left for an hour, till my brother came in, alone in the house, I grew very melancholy, and so my brother being come in I went forth to Mrs. Holden's, to whom I formerly spoke about a girle to come to me instead of a boy, and the like I did to Mrs. Standing and also to my brother Tom (29), whom I found at an alehouse in Popinjay ally drinking, and I standing with him at the gate of the ally, Ashwell came by, and so I left Tom and went almost home with her, talking of her going away. I find that she is willing to go, and told her (though behind my back my wife has told her that it was more my desire than hers that she should go, which was not well), that seeing my wife and she could not agree I did choose rather (was she my sister) have her gone, it would be better for us and for her too. To which she willing agreed, and will not tell me anything but that she do believe that my wife would have some body there that might not be so liable to give me information of things as she takes her to be. But, however, I must later to prevent all that. I parted with her near home, agreeing to take no notice of my coming along with her, and so by and by came home after her. Where I find a sad distracted house, which troubles me. However, to supper and prayers and to bed. And while we were getting to bed my wife began to discourse to her, and plainly asked whether she had got a place or no. And the other answered that she could go if we would to one of our own office, to which we agreed if she would. She thereupon said no; she would not go to any but where she might teach children, because of keeping herself in use of what things she had earnt, which she do not here nor will there, but only dressing. By which I perceive the wench is cunning, but one very fit for such a place, and accomplished to be woman to any lady in the land. So quietly to sleep, it being a cold night. But till my house is settled, I do not see that I can mind my business of the office, which grieves me to the heart. But I hope all will over in a little time, and I hope to the best. This day at Mrs. Holden's I found my new low crowned beaver according to the present fashion made, and will be sent home to-morrow.

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Diary of Samuel Pepys 29 November 1663. 29 Nov 1663. Lord's Day. This morning I put on my best black cloth suit, trimmed with scarlett ribbon, very neat, with my cloake lined with velvett, and a new beaver, which altogether is very noble, with my black silk knit canons I bought a month ago. I to church alone, my wife not going, and there I found my Lady Batten in a velvet gown, which vexed me that she should be in it before my wife, or that I am able to put her into one, but what cannot be, cannot be. However, when I came home I told my wife of it, and to see my weaknesse, I could on the sudden have found my heart to have offered her one, but second thoughts put it by, and indeed it would undo me to think of doing as Sir W. Batten (62) and his Lady do, who has a good estate besides his office.

Dress Folds at Feet

Around 1465. All Saints Church Harewood. Monument to William Gascoigne 1409-1465 (56) and Margaret Clarell Lady of the Garter 1397-1462 (68). Fluted Period. Suns and Roses Collar. His bare head, with finely detailed hair, no facial hair, rests on an unusual helm which appears to be a Maiden's Face, with an orle. Below the waist faulds and tassets under which mail may be seen. Both rest on a chest tomb with finely detailed weepers on each side. She, on his right, with a Widow's Barbe drawn up to her chin at the finely carved end of her dress two dogs, one pulling at the folds. Dogs chewing at her dress with Studded Collar. Dress Folds at Feet.

After 12 Oct 1477. Church of St John The Baptist Kinlet. Monument to Humphrey Blount 1421-1477 and Elizabeth Winnington. Fluted Period. He wearing a Suns and Roses Collar. She wearing a fine Horned Headdress with large flap as also detailed in the weepers. Dress Folds at Feet. Dogs chewing at her dress with Studded Collar. Chest with Weepers holding Shields.

After 1488. St Marys and St Nicholas Church Beaumaris. Monument to William Bulkeley 1418-1488 and Ellen Griffith. Early Plate Bascinet and Gorget Period. Finely made in alabaster. Dress Folds at Feet. Chunky Lions Mane. Chest with Weepers.

After 11 Sep 1504. All Saints Church Turvey. Monument to John Mordaunt 1455-1504 and Edith Latimer 1450-1504.
Fluted Period. Angels Supporting Pillow. Dress Folds at Feet. Misericorde. Tassets. Crespine Headress. Lancastrian Esses Collar with Big Esses. Screaming Man crest, possibly Saracen's Head Crest. Harpur and Moorecock of Burton on Trent. Dogs chewing at her dress. Some uncertainty about the attribution. Dogs chewing at her dress with Studded Collar. Swirling Tail. Chunky Lions Mane.

After 10 Nov 1559. Church of St Nicholas Alcester. Monument to Fulk Greville 11th Baron Latimer 3rd Baron Willoughby Broke 1503-1559 and Elizabeth Willoughby 11th Baroness Latimer 3rd Baroness Willoughby Broke 1512-1562Somewhat curious armour; possibly imagined by the carver. Rose Pendant. Chunky Lions Mane. Chest with Weepers. Helm with Folds. Dress Folds at Feet.

On 21 Dec 1579 Thomas Richards -1579 died. Monument to Thomas Richards -1579. In 1603 Elizabeth Fiennes 1523-1603 (80) died.
Monument in St Mary the Virgin Church Chipping Norton. Finely made in alabaster. Elizabethan Period. Renaissance chest with stripped-down strapwork. Rush Mat. Dress Folds at Feet. Ruff.

On 17 Apr 1581 Humphrey Bradbourne 1524-1581 (57) died. Monument in St Oswalds Church Ashbourne. Around the sides of the tomb their six sons and four daughters. The tomb sculpted by Richard and Gabriel Royley of Burton upon Trent. Chest with Weepers holding Shields. Dress Folds at Feet. Ruffs.

On 26 Jul 1594 Richard Shireburn 1526-1594 (68) died. He was buried in Church of All Hallows Great Mitton. Monument sculpted by Richard and Gabriel Royley of Burton upon Trent. Bongrace. Unicorn Pendant. Ruff. Dogs chewing at her dress. Dress Folds at Feet. Chunky Lions Mane. Chest with Weepers holding Shields. Dogs chewing at her dress with Studded Collar.

Rochet

Rochet. A vestment resembling a surplice, used chiefly by bishops and abbots.

Diary of Henry Machyn August 1560. 12 Aug 1560. The xij day of August was bered at Powlles master May the nuw dene of Powlles, and my lord of Londun (41) mad the sermon in ys rochett, bered hym.

Diary of Henry Machyn February 1561. 21 Feb 1561. The xxj day of Feybruary dyd pryche a-for the quen (27) and the consell master Skamler (41), the new bishop of Peterborow in ys chymner and ys whyt rochet.

Around 1636 Anthony Van Dyck Painter 1599-1641 (36). Portrait of William Laud Archbishop of Canterbury 1573-1645 (62). Wearing a black Chimere over his white Rochet.

Around 1636 Anthony Van Dyck Painter 1599-1641. Portrait of William Laud Archbishop of Canterbury 1573-1645. Wearing a black Chimere over his white Rochet.

On 10 Dec 1646 George Coke 1570-1646 (76) died. He was buried in Church of St Mary Magdalene Eardisley. A cenotaph was erected in his memory in the South East Transept of Hereford Cathedral. Effigy in Rochet, chimere, ruff and skull-cap, head on tasselled cushion, base and canopy modern.

Ruff

On 25 Feb 1560 Catherine Blount 1518-1560 (42) died. On 11 Aug 1580 Maurice Berkeley Standard Bearer 1506-1581 (74) died. Church of St Mary Bruton. Recumbent effigies of himself and his two wives Catherine Blount 1518-1560 (42) and Elizabeth Sands 1533-1585 (27) in an Easter sepulchre-type recess with double round arched front, Corinthian pilasters and strapwork panels. Ruff. Panel with quartered arms 1 Berkeley 2 probably Tiptoft, possibly Wotton Arms 3 Unknown Arms 4 probably Babington, possibly Zouche differenced with a label three points, overall a Crescent.

In 1571 John Mordaunt 2nd Baron Mordaunt 1508-1571 (63) died. He was buried at All Saints Church Turvey. His son Lewis Mordaunt 3rd Baron Mordaunt 1538-1601 (32) succeeded 3rd Baron Mordaunt.
On 02 Jun 1543 Ellen Fitzlewis 1522-1543 (21) died. In Apr 1592 Joan Fermor 1516-1592 (76) died.
Elizabethan Period monument with eight Doric Columns with John Mordaunt 2nd Baron Mordaunt 1508-1571 (63) in an elevated position with a wife either side, each lying on a rush mat. All three wearing ruffs. The Mordaunt crest an African Woman's Head. Man with Two Wives.

On 21 Dec 1579 Thomas Richards -1579 died. Monument to Thomas Richards -1579. In 1603 Elizabeth Fiennes 1523-1603 (80) died.
Monument in St Mary the Virgin Church Chipping Norton. Finely made in alabaster. Elizabethan Period. Renaissance chest with stripped-down strapwork. Rush Mat. Dress Folds at Feet. Ruff.

On 17 Apr 1581 Humphrey Bradbourne 1524-1581 (57) died. Monument in St Oswalds Church Ashbourne. Around the sides of the tomb their six sons and four daughters. The tomb sculpted by Richard and Gabriel Royley of Burton upon Trent. Chest with Weepers holding Shields. Dress Folds at Feet. Ruffs.

On 07 May 1592 Christopher Wray Chief Justice 1524-1592 (68) died. He was was buried in St Michael's Church Glentworth. Monument to Sir Chistopher and his wife Anne Girlington. Elizabethan Recumbent. Elephant and Castle Crest. Pink, white and blue-grey marble. Two recumbent effigies, Sir Christopher above and a little behind his wife, he in red robes, black cap and thick ruff; she in black robes, large ruff and hood. Four kneeling white marble daughters below. Ornate tomb recess above with flanking pink marble columns with white and gold Corinthian Capitals. Undersurface of Recess decorated with white and gold bay leaves. Plaque inscribed above with raised plaque above with Sir Christopher's son at prayer flanked by coats of arms and obelisks.

In 1582 Seventtenth Century copy.Unknown Painter. Portrait of Christopher Wray Chief Justice 1524-1592.

On 26 Jul 1594 Richard Shireburn 1526-1594 (68) died. He was buried in Church of All Hallows Great Mitton. Monument sculpted by Richard and Gabriel Royley of Burton upon Trent. Bongrace. Unicorn Pendant. Ruff. Dogs chewing at her dress. Dress Folds at Feet. Chunky Lions Mane. Chest with Weepers holding Shields. Dogs chewing at her dress with Studded Collar.

After 1607. Monument to father, son and daughter-in-law in Church of St Oswald Methley to (right) John Savile 1545-1607, (middle) Henry Savile 1st Baronet 1579-1632 and (right) Mary Dent. Probably sculpted by Nicholas Stone Sculptor 1587-1647. Chrisom Child. Ruff.

On 28 Oct 1613 George St Paul Baronet St Paul 1562-1613 (51) died. He was buried at St Lawrence's Church Snarford. Monument to George St Paul Baronet St Paul 1562-1613 (51) and Frances Wray Countess Warwick -1634. Elizabethan Recumbent. A base supporting the reclining figures of the deceased with composite Pillars supporting an entablature and armorial termination. In the base is a central semi-circular niche containing a carving of the deceased's daughter, flanked by niches containing mourning putti. Above on the lower step is a figure of Frances in full mourning dress with formal Ruff and hat, reclining on a cushion holding a prayer book. On the upper step he reclines in plate armour with a sword. The figures are contained in a semi-circular headed Recess with roses in the archivolt and on the back wall is an inscribed rectangular panel with scrolls and memento mori. The Pillars to either side support a frieze and entablature from which rise flaming urns and at the angles, and at the centre is a raised achievement of arms flanked by scrolled shields and obelisks. Possibly sculpted by Cornelius Cure Sculptor -1607.

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Tippett

Tippett. A woman's long fur scarf or shawl worn around the neck and shoulders.

Widow's Barbe

Widow's Barbe. A covering of the neck. From French 'barbe' meaning 'beard'.

After 1446. St Bartholemew's Church Tong. Monument to Fulk de Pembridge of Tong Castle -1409 and Isabel de Lingen 1370-1447. She the foundress of the church. Camail and Jupon Period. His head rests on a Great Helm with his crest of a Turkish Woman with plaited hair. At his feet a lion, at her feet a fawn albeit no longer with its head. She in widow's clothes with a barbe. Note the curious chain attached to the bottom of her dress.

Around 1465. All Saints Church Harewood. Monument to William Gascoigne 1409-1465 (56) and Margaret Clarell Lady of the Garter 1397-1462 (68). Fluted Period. Suns and Roses Collar. His bare head, with finely detailed hair, no facial hair, rests on an unusual helm which appears to be a Maiden's Face, with an orle. Below the waist faulds and tassets under which mail may be seen. Both rest on a chest tomb with finely detailed weepers on each side. She, on his right, with a Widow's Barbe drawn up to her chin at the finely carved end of her dress two dogs, one pulling at the folds. Dogs chewing at her dress with Studded Collar. Dress Folds at Feet.

Around 1560. Hasting's Chapel St Helen's Church Ashby de la Zouch. Monument to Francis Hastings 2nd Earl Huntingdon 1514-1560 (46) and Catherine Pole Countess Huntingdon 1511-1576 (49) by Richard Parker of Burton on Trent. Chest tomb with five sons on one side, five daughters on the other side, and eldest son on the end. Elizabethan Period. Leg Garter. Garter Robes. Widow's Barbe. Lancastrian Esses and Inter-twined Knots Collar. Feet resting on the Manticore badge of the Hasting's family.
Inscription: "Here lyeth ye corps of Francys late Erle of Hutyngdun, Lord Hastyngs, Hungerford, Botreaux, Molyns, and Moyles, Knight of ye honorable order of ye Garter, which deceased ye XXth daye of June ao Dni 1561: and ye ladie Katheryn, Countisse of Hutyngdon his wife, which deceased ye XXIIId daye of Sepbr anno dni 1576". Moved at least twice. Some restoration.