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Books, Prehistory, Transactions of the Woolhope Club 1881 Golden Valley Meeting

Transactions of the Woolhope Club 1881 Golden Valley Meeting is in Transactions of the Woolhope Club 1881.

1882Golden Valley Meeting. May 25th, 1882. Arthur's Stone [Map], Dorstone, By Mr. George H. Piper, F.G.S., President.

The very fine, and tolerably well-preserved Cromlech (Welsh, from crom, bent, arched or covering; llec a flat stone) on Merbage Hill, in the parish of Dorstone, known by the name of "Arthur's Stone [Map]," is one of the most perfect Druidic structures in our Island.

Cromlechs in British antiquities, are huge, broad, flat stones, raised upon other stones set up on end for that purpose.

Rowland partly inclines to the opinion of their having been altars, and partly to their having been sepulchres. He supposes them to have been originally tombs, but that in after times sacrifices were performed upon them to the heroes deposited within. Skeletons have been discovered under them. The Cromlech chiefly differs from the Kist-faen in not being closed up at the ends and sides, that is, in not so much partaking of the chest-like figure. It is generally of larger dimensions and sometimes consists of a greater number of stones. The terms. Cromlech and Kist-faen, are however indiscriminately used for the same monument.

Although we would gladly associate Arthur's Stone closely with the great British Hero, whose name it bears, and enrich it with some of the glorious traditions of his prowess and knightly worth, we are compelled to assign its erection to a period prior to the Roman invasion, and certainly more than 500 years before the era of the Great Pendragon, who was born at Tintagel, about the year 501. He established the first Military Order that was ever instituted in Britain, and by its means raised a glow of ingenuous heroism—the first spirit of chivalry that ever appeared in Europe—that manly and honourable gallantry of soul, which has made him and his worthies the subjects of romantic histories over all the world.

Beyond the assertion that it is pre-Roman its age is a question of mere conjecture.

The generally received opinion is that the name, Arthur's Stone, is simply a corruption of Thor-Stein, the Stone of Thor, or Thor's Altar, from which it is suggested the parish takes its name, Thorstein, Dorstein or Dorstone; but this is not wholly satisfactory or conclusive; if it be so the Saxon invaders must have adopted for their ceremonial rites, an ancient Keltic structure, which is improbable. The name "Stone," whether preceded by "Thor" or "Arthur," must be English—an English suffix given to an ill-understood relic of antiquity. It would seem more likely that the original British name was lost, and at some later period the name of "Arthur" was given to the Cromlech as a vague memorial of a shadowy but celebrated hero, whose name was so well known throughout Britain, and one of whose residences was not far distant. The title page of Duncumb's " History and Antiquities of the County of Hereford," published in 1804, has a fine woodcut of the Cromlech, as it then appeared, and although not signed with Bewick's name, there can be little doubt that it is his work. We have it on the authority of that eminent geologist, the Rev. W. S. Symonds, F.G.S., that "the large incumbent stone was no doubt hewn from the rock close by." The adjacent quarry was exposed which enabled a correct opinion to be formed. The other stones, some of which have fallen from their originally upright position, belong, Mr. Symonds says, for the most part, to the hard lime- stone of the cornstones, and are not in situ on the horizon of the Cromlech, but lie scattered about as boulders upon the land. All the stones belong to the Old Red Sandstone of the Country. On the south western side the Cromlech is close to an ancient road, probably British (as most of the British roads ran along the summits of the hills), in the angle, formed by another ancient road that comes up the hill to Dorstone, and is now used only for agricultural purposes, and as a bridle road. The Cromlech stands fifteen miles due north of the Skirred-fawr. Aline drawn from the Skirred-fawr, near Abergavenny, northwards to Arthur's Stone, would pass over the Camp on the southernmost point of the Hatterill Hill, Old Castle, Longtown Castle, and Urishay and Snodhill Castles. It consists of several stones, about 18 may be counted now, besides fragments. The chief feature is the large incumbent stone broken into three parts, and resting upon about ten smaller upright stones of various dimensions. In form it is nearly oval, the sides, east and west, being straight; with two irregular sides north and south, the north somewhat curved, pointed at the extremity, and eroded considerably. An evident fracture of the stone has shortened the south end, which is about four feet in width. The long axis is due north and south, measuring about nineteen feet. The short axis, east and west, is twelve feet. The straight side, on the west, is fifteen feet, and on the eastern side thirteen feet. The thickness varies, and probably nowhere exceeds two feet. Between the under-surface of the stone and the ground is a space of about four feet formerly the distance was greater as the hollow has been partially filled up by worm casts and other means. At a distance of eight feet from the south end of the large stone is an upright one, five feet high, and five feet six inches broad, standing with its edges east and west. A similar, but smaller stone may be seen further on, and several fragments lie around. A small Avenue occurs at the north end of the large stone, leading from it to the old road, and formed by five or six stones standing erect, with their edges north and south. They project from one to three feet above the turf, and bear evidence of much erosion; the avenue is in width about four feet, in length nine or ten feet. Fragments of stone lie scattered about more or less buried in the soil and covered by turf. The whole stands on a mound of oval shape, its lung axis twenty yards, its short axis ten yards.

To this modern description we are fortunately enabled to add some most interesting particulars, written by an intelligent and competent observer, who made a personal inspection of this interesting object, at the beginning of the reign of Queen Anne, or about 180 years ago.

In the first English Edition of Camden's Britannia, which was published in the year 1610, no mention is made of Arthur's Stone, nor is it marked on Speed's Map of that date. The other writer referred to is Nathaniel Salmon, a Bachelor of Laws, Antiquary and Historian, who was born circa 1676, son of the Rev. Thomas Salmon, also an antiquary. In Salmon's book, published in 1728 and 1729, entitled "A new Survey of England, wherein the defects of Camden are supplied and the errors of his followers remarked," he says, — "The remarkable curiosity of Rolle-Rich Stones [Map] (in Oxfordshire) hath not been sufficiently explained, either as to the original Form of that Monument, the age of it, or the Intention of the Erection. Out of the several Guesses that have been made, some hints may be taken, and seem capable of Improvement."

"Comparing that of Stonehenge with this, and the other in Cornwall, mentioned by the Right Reverend Annotator upon Camden, and a fourth which I have seen about twenty-five years ago, in Herefordshire, I am of opinion they are all the work of the same age, and made with the same intention."

"If my conjecture be right that of Herefordshire having more Remains of its Ancient Figure than any of the rest, is first to be described."

"Upon a hill west of the river Wye above Bradwardyn Castle, in the way toward the Black Mountains, is a flat, oblong stone, or a number of stones joined together, lying upon the pedestals of rude upright stones fix'd in the earth, after the manner of Rolle-Rich. A great part of the work is entire; the supporting stones being at the same distance from the verge of that they bear. The eastern point (as I remember it was eastern), is narrower than the rest as much as the eastern part of a gravestone. It seems to have increased in breadth toward the west, but the western end being demolished, as well the upper stones as the pedestals, neither the length of the whole nor the breadth of the western part can be determined. What remains (as I remember), was about six yards long, and two yards broad. The flat stone was then in three pieces, but the sides of those pieces answering one another, and not joining as they would have been made to do if they had been originally single, but indented like something broken, I take them to have been but one at first. From whatever quarry it was brought, or by whatever carriage, it hath the air of a natural stone, not of one put together with a strong cement. Its height from the ground was about twenty inches. I remember the sheep of the country, which are small, sheltered themselves under it from the sun. The name by which the country people call this, is Artil's Stone [Map], corrupted probably from Arthur's Stone. This may have been taught them by somebody that had a notion of Arthur's Round Table, thinking this erected with the same design. Or supposing this to be of the same age and design with Stonehenge, the memory of Arthur may be kept up by its similitude to the other, for Arthur, according to our Monkish History was a great man; and the honour attributed to Aurelius Ambrosius, who took upon him the government of the Britons when their affairs were desperate, after the departure of the Romans, Arthur is always allowed to share in. This might be from Arthur's being a Briton, whereas the other was half if not wholly of Roman blood."

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"With due submission to those that pronounce otherwise these monuments seem the work of the Britons before Oiesar invaded them: it could not be of the Britons during the Romans' stay, for nothing was done then but Roman, and these are not like Roman. Nor could the Britons do it afterwards, who were, alas! too much harass'd by their enemies to go about such a work as this for shew. Had the Saxons set up these stupendous pillars we must have seen more of the sort about the Island, and we should probably have had some account of it in their own or the British annals. Nor had the Danes quiet possession here long enough to carry on an undertaking that required so much time and application. The manuscripts of Ninnius, which mention Stonehenge, written two hundred years before the Danes had any considerable footing on this Island, decide the matter sufficiently against them."

"Two things ought to be cleared up before we go farther. The first is, that if this was a sepulchral monument erected by Pagans, we might expect to find barrows at some small distance. If it were Christian we might expect to meet with a cross or something of that kind implying the design."

"I confess there is a cross stands within a furlong or two (as near as I can remember) of Artil's Stone in Herefordshire: which phenomenon my readers are welcome to apply to what Hypothesis they please.

"It is upon a road over the mountain: an old coarse stone about eight foot above the ground, and about a foot and half broad. The figure of a cross is made by cutting into the stone an inch, or two, as we see them sometimes in churches." " The second difficulty to be accounted for, is, that this Arthur's Stone if coeval with Stonehenge, Rolle-Rich, and Biscaw-woune, should hold it out so bravely against time and weather, to which the rest have submitted. It is possible this being a natural stone may bear weather better than a compounded one, as I suppose the rest to be. And it is possible the race of Britons driven up to those mountains who are fond of pedigree, and delight in poems upon their worthies and heroes, may from time to time have repaired this decaying monument."

Salmon's details possess great interest, and prove that the appearance of the Cromlech is now much the same as it was two hundred years ago. The great top stone was then broken, and the description generally would apply to the present state of this curiously interesting ruin enveloped as it is in ages of mystery.

The "Old coarse stone about eight foot above the ground," bearing the incised figure of the Cross, should be the object of careful searches and enquiries. Such a stone would not have been broken up, and may yet be found built into the wall of some house or out-building. A careful—very careful—exploration should be made in the supporting mound, directed particularly towards a large stone shewing evident traces of tool-work, now lying against the bank of an adjacent hedge-row.

Now as to King Arthur. Whittaker's very able and learned treatise tells us his principal exploits were against the Northern Saxons, whilst he was only the Prince of the Silures, and Ambrosius was Pendragon, or Dictator of the Britons.

In a series of probably five campaigns, and in a succession of certainly eleven victories, this great Commander expelled the Saxons from the greater part of Britain. The twelfth battle of Arthur was fought in the South of England, after he was elected to the Pendragonship, against Kerdic, the Saxon. This extra- ordinary victory completed the circle of his military glories. The whole of our Island is in traditionary possession of his character, and more than six hundred places within it are still distinguished by his name. It is well established that the city of Caerleon, the capital of Silures, was his habitual residence, and as Arthur's Stone is distant some thirty-one or thirty-two miles only from that ancient capital, and lies immediately between it and the scenes of some of his martial exploits, it is not unreasonable to suppose that he made frequent visits to this mystical structure, before the hand of the Spoiler, Time, had destroyed its symmetry and marred its rude magnificence. Indeed it would require but little effort of the imagination to see his stout spear, Rone, made of ebon wood; and his well dinted shield Pridwen, lying on the great altar now before us; while he, grasping his trusty sword Excalibar, given to him by the Lady of the Lake, stood on the very spot we now occupy.

These arms were described in the uncouth, but remarkable language of Layamon, in the 12th century, and again three hundred years afterwards, in the rude numbers of Michael Drayton.

"The temper of his sword, the tried Excaliber,

The bigness and the length of Kone his noble spear,

With Pridwen, his great shield, and what the proof could bear."

Drayton