Culture, General Things, Food and Drink, Food, Seafood, Fish
Fish is in Seafood.
Culture, General Things, Food and Drink, Food, Seafood, Fish, Carp
Pepy's Diary. 02 Mar 1660. This morning I went early to my Lord at Mr. Crew's (age 62), where I spoke to him. Here were a great many come to see him, as Secretary Thurlow (age 43) who is now by this Parliament chosen again Secretary of State. There were also General Monk's (age 51) trumpeters to give my Lord a sound of their trumpets this morning. Thence I went to my office, and wrote a letter to Mr Downing (age 35) about the business of his house. Then going home, I met with Mr. Eglin, Chetwind, and Thomas, who took me to the Leg in King's street, where we had two brave dishes of meat, one of fish, a carp and some other fishes, as well done as ever I ate any. After that to the Swan [Map] tavern, where we drank a quart or two of wine, and so parted. So I to Mrs. Jem and took Mr. Moore with me (who I met in the street), and there I met W. Howe and Sheply. After that to Westminster Hall [Map], where I saw Sir G. Booth (age 37) at liberty. This day I hear the City militia is put into good posture, and it is thought that Monk will not be able to do any great matter against them now, if he have a mind. I understand that my Lord Lambert (age 40) did yesterday send a letter to the Council, and that to-night he is to come and appear to the Council in person. Sir Arthur Haselrigge (age 59) do not yet appear in the House. Great is the talk of a single person, and that it would now be Charles (age 29), George, or Richard (age 33)-For the last of which, my Lord St. John (age 61) is said to speak high. Great also is the dispute now in the House, in whose name the writs shall run for the next Parliament; and it is said that Mr. Prin (age 60), in open House, said, "In King Charles's". From Westminster Hall [Map] home. Spent the evening in my study, and so after some talk with my wife, then to bed.
Pepy's Diary. 06 Mar 1660. While we were drinking, in comes Mr. Day, a carpenter in Westminster, to tell me that it was Shrove Tuesday, and that I must go with him to their yearly Club upon this day, which I confess I had quite forgot. So I went to the Bell, where were Mr. Eglin, Veezy, Vincent a butcher, one more, and Mr. Tanner, with whom I played upon a viall, and he a viallin, after dinner, and were very merry, with a special good dinner, a leg of veal and bacon, two capons and sausages and fritters, with abundance of wine. After that I went home, where I found Kate Sterpin who hath not been here a great while before. She gone I went to see Mrs. Jem, at whose chamber door I found a couple of ladies, but she not being there, we hunted her out, and found that she and another had hid themselves behind a door. Well, they all went down into the dining-room, where it was full of tag, rag, and bobtail, dancing, singing, and drinking, of which I was ashamed, and after I had staid a dance or two I went away. Going home, called at my Lord's for Mr. Sheply, but found him at the Lion with a pewterer, that he had bought pewter to-day of. With them I drank, and so home and wrote by the post, by my Lord's command, for J. Goods to come up presently. For my Lord intends to go forthwith into the Swiftsure till the Nazeby be ready.
Pepy's Diary. 26 Mar 1662. At noon come my good guests, Madame Turner, The., and Cozen Norton, and a gentleman, one Mr. Lewin of the King's Life-Guard; by the same token he told us of one of his fellows killed this morning in a duel. I had a pretty dinner for them, viz., a brace of stewed carps, six roasted chickens, and a jowl of Salmon, hot, for the first course; a tanzy1 and two neats' tongues, and cheese the second; and were very merry all the afternoon, talking and singing and piping upon the flageolette.
Note 1. Tansy (tanacetum), a herb from which puddings were made. Hence any pudding of the kind. Selden ("Table Talk") says: "Our tansies at Easter have reference to the bitter herbs". See in Wordsworth's "University Life in the Eighteenth Century" recipes for "an apple tansey", "a bean tansey", and "a gooseberry tansey".-M. B.
Pepy's Diary. 04 Apr 1663. Up betimes and to my office. By and by to Lombard Street [Map] by appointment to meet Mr. Moore, but the business not being ready I returned to the office, where we sat a while, and, being sent for, I returned to him and there signed to some papers in the conveying of some lands mortgaged by Sir Rob. Parkhurst in my name to my Lord Sandwich (age 37), which I having done I returned home to dinner, whither by and by comes Roger Pepys (age 45), Mrs. Turner (age 40) her daughter, Joyce Norton, and a young lady, a daughter of Coll. Cockes, my uncle Wight, his wife and Mrs. Anne Wight. This being my feast, in lieu of what I should have had a few days ago for my cutting of the stone, for which the Lord make me truly thankful. Very merry at, before, and after dinner, and the more for that my dinner was great, and most neatly dressed by our own only maid. We had a fricasee of rabbits and chickens, a leg of mutton boiled, three carps in a dish, a great dish of a side of lamb, a dish of roasted pigeons, a dish of four lobsters, three tarts, a lamprey pie (a most rare pie), a dish of anchovies, good wine of several sorts, and all things mighty noble and to my great content.
Pepy's Diary. 03 Jun 1667. Thence to Westminster Hall [Map], and there walked a turn or two with Sir William Doyly (age 53), who did lay a wager with me, the Treasurership would be in one hand, notwithstanding this present Commission, before Christmas: on which we did lay a poll of ling, a brace of carps, and a pottle of wine; and Sir W. Pen (age 46) and Mr. Scowen to be at the eating of them.
Evelyn's Diary. 22 Oct 1685. I accompanied my Lady Clarendon to her house at Swallowfield in Berks, dining by the way at Mr. Graham's (age 36) lodge at Bagshot; the house, new repair'd and capacious enough for a good family, stands in a Park [Map]. Hence we went to Swallowfield; this house is after the antient build ing of honourable gentlemen's houses, when they kept up antient hospitality, but the gardens and waters as elegant as 'tis possible to make a flat, by art and industrie, and no meane expence, my lady being so extraordinarily skill'd in ye flowery part, and my lord in diligence of planting; so that I have hardly seene a seate whrch shews more tokens of it than what is to be found here, not only in the delicious and rarest fruits of a garden, but in those innumerable timber trees in the ground about the seate, to the greatest ornament and benefit of the place. There is one orchard of 1000 golden, and other cider pippins; walks and groves of elms, limes, oaks, and other trees. The garden is so beset with all manner of sweete shrubbs, that it per fumes the aire. The distribution also of the quarters, walks, and parterres, is excellent. The nurseries, kitchin garden full of ye most desireable plants; two very noble Orangeries well furnished; but above all, the canall and fishponds, the one fed with a white, the other with a black running water, fed by a quick and swift river, so well and plen tifully stor'd with fish, that for pike, carp, breame and tench, I never saw any thing approching it. We had at every meale carp and pike of size fit for the table of a Prince, and what added to ye delight was to see the hundreds taken by the drag, out of which, the cooke standing by, we pointed out what we had most mind to, and had carp that would have ben worth at London twenty shillings a piece. The waters are flagg'd about with Calamus aromaticus, with wch my lady has hung a closet, that retains the smell very perfectly. There is also a certaine sweete willow and other exotics: also a very fine bowllng-greene, meadow, pasture, and wood; in a word, all that can render a country seate delightful. There is besides a well furnish'd library in ye house.
Culture, General Things, Food and Drink, Food, Seafood, Fish, Cod
Culture, General Things, Food and Drink, Food, Seafood, Fish, Cod's Head
Pepy's Diary. 23 Jan 1663. Thence to the 'Change [Map], and so home with him by coach, and I to see how my wife do, who is pretty well again, and so to dinner to Sir W. Batten's (age 62) to a cod's head, and so to my office, and after stopping to see Sir W. Pen (age 41), where was Sir J. Lawson (age 48) and his lady and daughter, which is pretty enough, I came back to my office, and there set to business pretty late, finishing the margenting my Navy-Manuscript. So home and to bed.
Culture, General Things, Food and Drink, Food, Seafood, Fish, Eel
Pepy's Diary. 08 Jul 1663. Up and to my office, where all the morning busy, and then at noon home to dinner alone upon a good dish of eeles, given me by Michell, the Bewpers man, and then to my viall a little, and then down into the cellar and up and down with Mr. Turner to see where his vault may be made bigger, or another made him, which I think may well be. And so to my office, where very busy all day setting things in order my contract books and preparing things against the next sitting.
Pepy's Diary. 01 Oct 1663. After dinner I by water to Deptford, Kent [Map] about a little business, and so back again, buying a couple of good eeles by the way, and after writing by the post, home to see the painter at work, late, in my wife's closet, and so to supper and to bed, having been very merry with the painter, late, while he was doing his work. This day the King (age 33) and Court returned from their progress.
Pepy's Diary. 13 Jun 1666. Home about twelve at night, and so to bed, finding most of my people gone to bed. In my way home I called on a fisherman and bought three eeles, which cost me three shillings.
Pepy's Diary. 08 Sep 1666. Up and with Sir W. Batten (age 65) and Sir W. Pen (age 45) by water to White Hall and they to St. James's. I stopped with Sir G. Carteret (age 56) to desire him to go with us, and to enquire after money. But the first he cannot do, and the other as little, or says, "when we can get any, or what shall we do for it?" He, it seems, is employed in the correspondence between the City and the King (age 36) every day, in settling of things. I find him full of trouble, to think how things will go. I left him, and to St. James's, where we met first at Sir W. Coventry's (age 38) chamber, and there did what business we can, without any books. Our discourse, as every thing else, was confused. The fleete is at Portsmouth, Hampshire [Map], there staying a wind to carry them to the Downes, or towards Bullen [Map], where they say the Dutch fleete is gone, and stays. We concluded upon private meetings for a while, not having any money to satisfy any people that may come to us. I bought two eeles upon the Thames, cost me six shillings.
Culture, General Things, Food and Drink, Food, Seafood, Fish, Conger Eel
Culture, General Things, Food and Drink, Food, Seafood, Fish, Flounder
Henry Machyn's Diary. 25 May 1562. The sam day was sett up at the cukold haven a grett May-polle by bochers and fysher-men, fulle of hornes; and they mad grett chere, for ther was ij [2] fyrkens of fresse sturgeans , and grett konger, and grett burttes, and grett plente of wyne, that yt cam to viijl.
Culture, General Things, Food and Drink, Food, Seafood, Fish, Hake
Pepy's Diary. 12 Feb 1662. Then to my chamber drawing up writings, in expectation of my uncle Thomas coming. So to my musique and then to bed. This night I had half a 100 poor Jack1 sent me by Mr. Adis.
Note 1. The "poor john" is a hake salted and dried. It is frequently referred to in old authors as poor fare.
Pepy's Diary. 14 Feb 1662. This morning in comes W. Bowyer, who was my wife's Valentine, she having, at which I made good sport to myself, held her hands all the morning, that she might not see the paynters that were at work in gilding my chimney-piece and pictures in my diningroom. By and by she and I by coach with him to Westminster, by the way leaving at Tom's and my wife's father's lodgings each of them some poor Jack, and some she carried to my father Bowyer's, where she staid while I walked in the Hall, and there among others met with Serj'. Pierce, and I took him aside to drink a cup of ale, and he told me the basest thing of Mr. Montagu's and his man Eschar's going away in debt, that I am troubled and ashamed, but glad to be informed of. He thinks he has left £1000 for my Lord to pay, and that he has not laid out £3,000 Out of the £5,000 for my Lord's use, and is not able to make an account of any of the money.
Culture, General Things, Food and Drink, Food, Seafood, Fish, Herring
Pepy's Diary. 19 Sep 1661. From thence to our horses, and with my wife went and rode through Sturbridge1 but the fair was almost done. So we did not 'light there at all, but went back to Cambridge, and there at the Beare [Map] we had some herrings, we and my brother, and after dinner set out for Brampton, where we come in very good time, and found all things well, and being somewhat weary, after some talk about tomorrow's business with my father, we went to bed.
Note 1. Sturbridge fair is of great antiquity. The first trace of it is found in a charter granted about 1211 by King John to the Lepers of the Hospital of St. Mary Magdalen at Sturbridge by Cambridge, a fair to be held in the close of the hospital on the vigil and feast of the Holy Cross (see Cornelius Walford's "Fairs Past and Present", 1883, p. 54).
Pepy's Diary. 05 Oct 1661. At the office all the morning, then dined at home, and so staid at home all the afternoon putting up my Lord's model of the Royal James, which I borrowed of him long ago to hang up in my room. And at night Sir W. Pen (age 40) and I alone to the Dolphin, and there eat some bloat-herrings1 and drank good sack. Then came in Sir W. Warren and another and staid a while with us, and then Sir Arnold Brames, with whom we staid late and till we had drank too much wine. So home and I to bed pleased at my afternoon's work in hanging up the shipp. So to bed.
Note 1. To bloat is to dry by smoke, a method chiefly used to cure herrings or bloaters. "I have more smoke in my mouth than would blote a hundred herrings".-Beaumont and Fletcher, Island Princess. "Why, you stink like so many bloat-herrings newly taken out of the chimney".-Ben Jonson, "Masque of Augurs"..
Pepy's Diary. 03 Oct 1662. At my office, and with my workmen till noon, and then dined with my wife upon herrings, the first I have eat this year, and so to my workmen again.
Pepy's Diary. 10 Oct 1666. Thence with him to Westminster, to the parish church, where the Parliament-men, and Stillingfleete (age 31) in the pulpit. So full, no standing there; so he and I to eat herrings at the Dog taverne [Map]. And then to church again, and there was Mr. Frampton (age 44) in the pulpit, they cry up so much, a young man, and of a mighty ready tongue. I heard a little of his sermon, and liked it; but the crowd so great, I could not stay.
Pepy's Diary. 20 Mar 1667. So home by water again, where I find my wife gone abroad, so I to Sir W. Batten (age 66) to dinner, and had a good dinner of ling and herrings pie, very good meat, best of the kind that ever I had.
Pepy's Diary. 02 Apr 1669. Thence to the council door and Mr. Chevins (age 67) took me into the back stairs, and they with his friend, Mr. Fowkes, for whom he is very solicitous in some things depending in this Office, he did make me, with some others that he took in (among others, Alderman Back well), eat a pickled herrings, the largest I ever saw, and drink variety of wines till I was almost merry; but I did keep in good tune; and so, after the Council was up, I home; and there find my wife not yet come home from Deptford, Kent [Map], he she hath been all this day to see her mother, but she come and by, and so to talk, and supper, and to bed. This night I did bring home from the King's potticary's, in White Hall by Mr. Cooling's direction, a water that he says did him mighty good for his eyes. I pray God it may do me good; but, by his description, his disease was the same as mine, and this do encourage me to use it.
Culture, General Things, Food and Drink, Food, Seafood, Fish, Lampreys
The Ecclesiastical History of England and Normandy by Orderic Vitalis 1135. Meanwhile, Henry king of England (age 67), having arrived at the castle of Lions [Map]1 on the seventh of the calends of December [25 Nov 1135], gave orders to his huntsmen to be ready to attend him for the chace in the woods on the next day. But during the night he suddenly fell sick, and lay at the point of death from Tuesday till the following Sunday. In the course of that time he confessed his sins to his chaplains;2 and then, sending for Hugh, archbishop of Rouen, he requested his spiritual counsels. By his admonitions, the king released criminals from all forfeitures, permitted all exiles to return to their homes, and restored those whom he had disinherited to their paternal estates. He gave orders to his son Robert to take out of his treasury, which was under his charge at Falaise, sixty thousand livres, and distribute it in pay and donatives to his household servants and hired troops.3 He commanded that his body should be carried to Reading, where he had founded a monastery for two hundred monks, in honour of the Holy and Undivided Trinity.4
Note 1. The castle of Lions [Map] was a favourite hunting seat of the Norman dukes and kings, in a forest of the same name, about six leagues from Rouen. Henry arrived there on Monday November 25. Henry of Huntingdon mentions, that his illness was caused by eating lampreys, of which he was immoderately fond. P. 259, Antig. Lib.
Note 2. It was the abbot of Reading, who, happening to be in the neighbourhood, was first summoned to administer the consolations of religion to the king. He afterwards sent to the archbishop of Rouen, who gives the following account of his last hours in a letter to Pope Innocent, preserved by William of Malmesbury: "I went to him and stayed there, full of grief, three days. At my instance, he confessed his sins, and beat his breast with his own hand, dismissing all ill-will. By the divine counsels given him by me and the bishops, he often promised that he would lead a better life. After that promise, as my duty was, I gave him absolution for the third time in three days, He adored the crucifix, received with devotion the body and blood of our Lord, and ordered alms to be distributed, thus saying: ‘Let my debts be paid, all wages and stipends be discharged, and the rest be given amongst the poor.’"
At the king's death, there was found in his treasury at Winchester, say the historians, more than a hundred thousand livres, of exquisite coinage. There were also vessels of gold and silver, of massive weight and inestimable value, collected by the ancient kings, with magnificent additions by Henry himself.
Note 3. Our author omits noticing, that he bequeathed his immense heritage to his daughter, without making any mention of his son-in-law, "being incensed against her husband, exasperated by his threats, and even injuries."
Note 4. This is not quite exact. The abbey of Reading was dedicated to the blessed Virgin and St. John, as we have already observed.
Flowers of History by Roger of Wendover 1135. 01 Dec 1135. Whilst king Henry (age 67) was in Normandy, he one day returned from hunting, and stopped at St. Denys, in the wood of Lions [Map], to eat some lampreys, a fish which he was very fond of, though they always disagreed with him, and the physicians had often cautioned him against eating them, but he would not listen to their advice. This food mortally chilled the old man's blood, and caused a sudden and violent illness, against which nature struggled, and brought on an acute fever, in the effort to resist the worst effects of the disease. Unable to overcome the malady, this great king died on the first day of December, after he had reigned thirty-five years and three months. His death was foreshown by a violent wind, which, on the eve of the apostles Simon and Jude, cast down towers, and houses, and trees on every side: the moon also was eclipsed the same year, on the 29th of July. This king founded the abbeys of Reading, Cirencester, de Pre near Rouen, and Mortimer, and built twenty-five noble towns, besides towers and castles.
Anno Domini mcxxxv. Rex Henricus moratus in Normannia cum die quodam a venatu rediisset apud sanctum Dionysium in silva Leonum carnes comedit murænarum quæ ei semper nocebant et eas semper supra modum amabat; et, cum medici eas comedere prohiberent, non adquievit rex consilio salutari. Haec igitur comestio, pessimi humoris illatrix et consimilium vehemens excitatrix, senile corpus lethaliter refrigidans subitam et summam perturbationem effecit; contra quam natura renitens febrem excitavit acutam, ad impetum materiei gravissimse dissolvendum; cum autem resistere vi nulla potuisset, decessit rex magnus, cum regnasset triginta quinque annis ac tribus mensibus, prima die Decembris. lllius autem obitum ventus vehemens præsignavit, qui in vigilia apostolorum Simonis et Judas turres et sedificia dejecit et arbores usquequaque subvertit; luna etiam eclipsim passa est eodem anno quarto kalendas Augusti. Cœnobia fecit rex, de Radingis, de Cirencestre, de Prato ante Rothomagum, et de Mortuo-mari; municipia vero, præter turres et castella, viginti quinque opere sumptuoso construxit.
Chronicle of Henry of Huntingdon 1135. [01 Dec 1135]. In his thirty-fifth year King Henry (age 67) still continued in Normandy, though he often proposed to return to England, an intention which was never fulfilled. His daughter (age 33) detained him on account of sundry disagreements, which had their origin in various causes, between the king and the Count of Anjou (age 22), and which were fomented by the arts of his daughter. These disputes irritated the king, and roused an ill feeling, which some have said resulted in a natural torpor, which was the cause of his death. For, returning from hunting at St.Denys in the "Wood of Lions," he partook of some lampreys, of which he was fond, though they always disagreed with him; and though his physician recommended him to abstain, the king would not submit to his salutary advice; according to what is written:
"Men strive 'gainst rules, and seek forbidden things."
Anno trigesimo quinto rex Henricus continue moratus est in Normannia; et scepe, non rediturus in Angliam, redire proponebat; sed detinebat eum filia ejus, discordia variis quæ oriebantur pluribus causis inter regem et consulem Andegavensein, artibus scilicet filiæ suæ. Quibus stimulationibus rex in iram et animi rancorem excitatus est, qnæ a nonnulis causa naturalis refrigidationis, et postea mortis ejus causa fuisse dictæ sunt. Cum igitur rex a venatu redisset, apud Sanctum Dionysium in silva Leonum comedit carnes murenarum, quæ semper ei nocebant, et semper eas amabat. Cum autem medicus hoc comedi prohiberet, non adquievit rex salubri consilio, secundum quod dicitur.
In 1530 the Prior of Llanthony Priory [Map] sent cheese, carp and baked lampreys to Henry VIII (age 38) at Windsor, Berkshire [Map].
Pepy's Diary. 04 Apr 1663. Up betimes and to my office. By and by to Lombard Street [Map] by appointment to meet Mr. Moore, but the business not being ready I returned to the office, where we sat a while, and, being sent for, I returned to him and there signed to some papers in the conveying of some lands mortgaged by Sir Rob. Parkhurst in my name to my Lord Sandwich (age 37), which I having done I returned home to dinner, whither by and by comes Roger Pepys (age 45), Mrs. Turner (age 40) her daughter, Joyce Norton, and a young lady, a daughter of Coll. Cockes, my uncle Wight, his wife and Mrs. Anne Wight. This being my feast, in lieu of what I should have had a few days ago for my cutting of the stone, for which the Lord make me truly thankful. Very merry at, before, and after dinner, and the more for that my dinner was great, and most neatly dressed by our own only maid. We had a fricasee of rabbits and chickens, a leg of mutton boiled, three carps in a dish, a great dish of a side of lamb, a dish of roasted pigeons, a dish of four lobsters, three tarts, a lamprey pie (a most rare pie), a dish of anchovies, good wine of several sorts, and all things mighty noble and to my great content.
Pepy's Diary. 23 May 1664. Towards noon I and my wife by water to Woolwich, Kent [Map], leaving my wife at Mr. Falconer's, and Mr. Hater and I with some officers of the yard on board to see several ships how ready they are. Then to Mr. Falconer's to a good dinner, having myself carried them a vessel of sturgeon and a lamprey pie, and then to the Yarde again, and among other things did at Mr. Ackworth's obtain a demonstration of his being a knave; but I did not discover it, till it be a little more seasonable.
Culture, General Things, Food and Drink, Food, Seafood, Fish, Ling
Pepy's Diary. 25 Jan 1660. Wednesday. Called up early to Mr Downing (age 35); he gave me a Character, such a one as my Lord's (age 34), to make perfect, and likewise gave me his order for £500 to carry to Mr. Frost, which I did and so to my office, where I did do something about the character till twelve o'clock. Then home find found my wife and the maid at my Lord's getting things ready against to-morrow. I went by water to my Uncle White's' to dinner, where I met my father (age 59), where we alone had a fine jole of Ling to dinner. After dinner I took leave, and coming home heard that in Cheapside there had been but a little before a gibbet set up, and the picture of Huson1 hung upon it in the middle of the street. I called at Paul's Churchyard, where I bought Buxtorf's Hebrew Grammar; and read a declaration of the gentlemen of Northampton which came out this afternoon. Thence to my father's, where I staid with my mother a while and then to Mr. Crew's (age 62) about a picture to be sent into the country, of Mr. Thomas Crew, to Lord. So [to] my Lady Wright to speak with her, but she was abroad, so Mr. Evans, her butler, had me into his buttery, and gave me sack and a lesson on his lute, which he played very well. Thence I went to Lord's and got most things ready against tomorrow, as fires and laying the cloth, and my wife was making of her tarts and larding of her pullets till eleven o'clock. This evening Mr Downing sent for me, and gave me order to go to Mr. Jessop for his papers concerning his dispatch to Holland which were not ready, only his order for a ship to transport him he gave me. To my Lord's again and so home with my wife, tired with this day's work.
Note 1. John Hewson, who, from a low origin, became a colonel in the Parliament army, and sat in judgment on the King: he escaped hanging by flight, and died in 1662, at Amsterdam. A curious notice of Hewson occurs in Rugge's "Diurnal", December 5th, 1659, which states that "he was a cobbler by trade, but a very stout man, and a very good commander; but in regard of his former employment, they [the city apprentices] threw at him old shoes, and slippers, and turniptops, and brick-bats, stones, and tiles".... "At this time [January, 1659-60] there came forth, almost every day, jeering books: one was called 'Colonel Hewson's Confession; or, a Parley with Pluto,' about his going into London, and taking down the gates of Temple-Bar". He had but one eye, which did not escape the notice of his enemies. B.
Pepy's Diary. 16 Oct 1661. This day dined by appointment with me, Dr. Thos. Pepys and my Coz: Snow, and my brother Tom (age 27), upon a fin of ling and some sounds, neither of which did I ever know before, but most excellent meat they are both, that in all my life I never eat the like fish.
Pepy's Diary. 20 Mar 1667. So home by water again, where I find my wife gone abroad, so I to Sir W. Batten (age 66) to dinner, and had a good dinner of ling and herrings pie, very good meat, best of the kind that ever I had.
Pepy's Diary. 03 Jun 1667. Thence to Westminster Hall [Map], and there walked a turn or two with Sir William Doyly (age 53), who did lay a wager with me, the Treasurership would be in one hand, notwithstanding this present Commission, before Christmas: on which we did lay a poll of ling, a brace of carps, and a pottle of wine; and Sir W. Pen (age 46) and Mr. Scowen to be at the eating of them.
Culture, General Things, Food and Drink, Food, Seafood, Fish, Mackerell
Pepy's Diary. 30 May 1662. So home, and at ten o'clock at night Mr. Shepley came to sup with me. So we had a dish of mackerell and pease, and so he bid us good night, going to lie on board the hoy, and I to bed.
Pepy's Diary. 30 Apr 1664. At noon to the 'Change [Map], where, after business done, Sir W. Rider and Cutler took me to the Old James and there did give me a good dish of mackerell, the first I have seen this year, very good, and good discourse.
Culture, General Things, Food and Drink, Food, Seafood, Fish, Mullet
Pepy's Diary. 05 Jun 1661. So home Sir William and I, and it being very hot weather I took my flageolette and played upon the leads in the garden, where Sir W. Pen (age 40) came out in his shirt into his leads, and there we staid talking and singing, and drinking great drafts of claret, and eating botargo1 and bread and butter till 12 at night, it being moonshine; and so to bed, very near fuddled.
Note 1. "Botarga. The roe of the mullet pressed flat and dried; that of commerce, however, is from the tunny, a large fish of passage which is common in the Mediterranean. The best kind comes from Tunis". -Smyth's Sailor's Word-Book. Botargo was chiefly used to promote drinking by causing thirst, and Rabelais makes Gargantua eat it.
Pepy's Diary. 23 Jul 1663. So up and to supper with Sir W. Batten (age 62) upon a soused mullet, very good meat, and so home and to bed.
Culture, General Things, Food and Drink, Food, Seafood, Fish, Salmon
Pepy's Diary. 15 Feb 1660. Wednesday. Called up in the morning by Captain Holland and Captain Cuttance, and with them to Harper's, thence to my office, thence with Mr. Hill of Worcestershire to Will's, where I gave him a letter to Nan Pepys, and some merry pamphlets against the Rump to carry to her into the country. So to Mr. Crew's (age 62), where the dining room being full, Mr. Walgrave [Note. Believed to be a son of John Crew 1st Baron Crew and Jemima Waldegrave Baroness Crew (age 58) although there is no record of such person] and I dined below in the buttery by ourselves upon a good dish of buttered Salmon. Thence to Hering' the merchant about my Lord's (age 34) Worcester money and back to Paul's Churchyard, where I staid reading in Fuller's (age 51) History of the Church of England an hour or two, and so to my father's (age 59), where Mr. Hill came to me and I gave him direction what to do at Worcester about the money. Thence to my Lady Wright's and gave her a letter from my Lord privily. So to Mrs. Jem and sat with her, who dined at Mr. Crew's to-day, and told me that there was at her coming away at least forty gentlemen (I suppose members that were secluded, for Mr. Walgrave told me that there were about thirty met there the last night) came dropping in one after another thither. Thence home and wrote into the country against to-morrow by the carrier and so to bed. At my father's I heard how my cousin Kate Joyce had a fall yesterday from her horse and had some hurt thereby. No news to-day, but all quiet to see what the Parliament will do about the issuing of the writs to-morrow for filling up of the House, according to Monk's (age 51) desire.
Pepy's Diary. 15 Mar 1660. Early packing up my things to be sent by cart with the rest of my Lord's. So to Will's, where I took leave of some of my friends. Here I met Tom Alcock, one that went to school with me at Huntingdon, but I had not seen him these sixteen years. So in the Hall paid and made even with Mrs. Michell; afterwards met with old Beale, and at the Axe paid him this quarter to Ladyday next. In the afternoon Dick Mathews comes to dine, and I went and drank with him at Harper's. So into London by water, and in Fish Street [Map] my wife and I bought a bit of Salmon for 8d. and went to the Sun Tavern [Map] and ate it, where I did promise to give her all that I have in the world but my books, in case I should die at sea. From thence homewards; in the way my wife bought linen for three smocks and other things. I went to my Lord's and spoke with him. So home with Mrs. Jem by coach and then home to my own house. From thence to the Fox in King-street to supper on a brave turkey of Mr. Hawly's, with some friends of his there, Will Bowyer, &c. After supper I went to Westminster Hall [Map], and the Parliament sat till ten at night, thinking and being expected to dissolve themselves to-day, but they did not. Great talk to-night that the discontented officers did think this night to make a stir, but prevented. To the Fox again. Home with my wife, and to bed extraordinary sleepy.
Evelyn's Diary. 15 Nov 1661. I dined with the Duke of Ormond (age 51), who told me there were no moles in Ireland, nor any rats till of late, and that in but one county; but it was a mistake that spiders would not live there, only they were not poisonous. Also, that they frequently took Salmon with dogs.
Pepy's Diary. 26 Mar 1662. At noon come my good guests, Madame Turner, The., and Cozen Norton, and a gentleman, one Mr. Lewin of the King's Life-Guard; by the same token he told us of one of his fellows killed this morning in a duel. I had a pretty dinner for them, viz., a brace of stewed carps, six roasted chickens, and a jowl of Salmon, hot, for the first course; a tanzy1 and two neats' tongues, and cheese the second; and were very merry all the afternoon, talking and singing and piping upon the flageolette.
Note 1. Tansy (tanacetum), a herb from which puddings were made. Hence any pudding of the kind. Selden ("Table Talk") says: "Our tansies at Easter have reference to the bitter herbs". See in Wordsworth's "University Life in the Eighteenth Century" recipes for "an apple tansey", "a bean tansey", and "a gooseberry tansey".-M. B.
Pepy's Diary. 06 Aug 1666. By and by comes Mr. Pierce and his wife, the first time she also hath been here since her lying-in, both having been brought to bed of boys, and both of them dead. And here we talked, and were pleasant, only my wife in a chagrin humour, she not being pleased with my kindnesse to either of them, and by and by she fell into some silly discourse wherein I checked her, which made her mighty pettish, and discoursed mighty offensively to Mrs. Pierce, which did displease me, but I would make no words, but put the discourse by as much as I could (it being about a report that my wife said was made of herself and meant by Mrs. Pierce, that she was grown a gallant, when she had but so few suits of clothes these two or three years, and a great deale of that silly discourse), and by and by Mrs. Pierce did tell her that such discourses should not trouble her, for there went as bad on other people, and particularly of herself at this end of the towne, meaning my wife, that she was crooked, which was quite false, which my wife had the wit not to acknowledge herself to be the speaker of, though she has said it twenty times. But by this means we had little pleasure in their visit; however, Knipp and I sang, and then I offered them to carry them home, and to take my wife with me, but she would not go: so I with them, leaving my wife in a very ill humour, and very slighting to them, which vexed me. However, I would not be removed from my civility to them, but sent for a coach, and went with them; and, in our way, Knipp saying that she come out of doors without a dinner to us, I took them to Old Fish Streete, to the very house and woman where I kept my wedding dinner, where I never was since, and there I did give them a joie of Salmon, and what else was to be had. And here we talked of the ill-humour of my wife, which I did excuse as much as I could, and they seemed to admit of it, but did both confess they wondered at it; but from thence to other discourse, and among others to that of my Lord Bruncker (age 46) and Mrs. Williams, who it seems do speake mighty hardly of me for my not treating them, and not giving her something to her closett, and do speake worse of my wife, and dishonourably, but it is what she do of all the world, though she be a whore herself; so I value it not. But they told me how poorly my Lord carried himself the other day to his kinswoman, Mrs. Howard, and was displeased because she called him uncle to a little gentlewoman that is there with him, which he will not admit of; for no relation is to be challenged from others to a lord, and did treat her thereupon very rudely and ungenteely.
Pepy's Diary. 20 Apr 1667. So home, and having brought home with me from Fenchurch Street [Map] a hundred of sparrowgrass1, cost 18d. We had them and a little bit of Salmon, which my wife had a mind to, cost 3s.
Note 1. A form once so commonly used for asparagus that it has found its way into dictionaries.
Pepy's Diary. 04 Jul 1668. Up, and to see Sir W. Coventry (age 40), and give him account of my doings yesterday, which he well liked of, and was told thereof by my Lord Halifax (age 34) before; but I do perceive he is much concerned for this business. Gives me advice to write a smart letter to the Duke of York (age 34) about the want of money in the Navy, and desire him to communicate it to the Commissioners of the Treasury; for he tells me he hath hot work sometimes to contend with the rest for the Navy, they being all concerned for some other part of the King's expenses, which they would prefer to this, of the Navy. He shewed me his closet, with his round table, for him to sit in the middle, very convenient; and I borrowed several books of him, to collect things out of the Navy, which I have not, and so home, and there busy sitting all the morning, and at noon dined, and then all the afternoon busy, till night, and then to Mile-End with my wife and girl, and there drank and eat a joie of Salmon, at the Rose and Crown, our old house; and so home to bed.
Culture, General Things, Food and Drink, Food, Seafood, Fish, Sounds
Pepy's Diary. 16 Oct 1661. This day dined by appointment with me, Dr. Thos. Pepys and my Coz: Snow, and my brother Tom (age 27), upon a fin of ling and some sounds, neither of which did I ever know before, but most excellent meat they are both, that in all my life I never eat the like fish.
Culture, General Things, Food and Drink, Food, Seafood, Fish, Sturgeon
Pepy's Diary. 01 Aug 1660. Up very early, and by water to Whitehall to my Lord's, and there up to my Lord's lodging (Win. Howe being now ill of the gout at Mr. Pierce's), and there talked with him about the affairs of the Navy, and how I was now to wait today at the Privy Seal. Commissioner Pett (age 49) went with me, whom I desired to make my excuse at the office for my absence this day. Hence to the Privy Seal Office, where I got (by Mr. Mathews' means) possession of the books and table, but with some expectation of Baron's bringing of a warrant from the King to have this month. Nothing done this morning, Baron having spoke to Mr. Woodson and Groome (clerks to Mr. Trumbull of the Signet) to keep all work in their hands till the afternoon, at which time he expected to have his warrant from the King for this month. [The clerks of the Privy Seal took the duty of attendance for a month by turns.] I took at noon Mr. Harper to the Leg in King Street, and did give him his dinner, who did still advise me much to act wholly myself at the Privy Seal, but I told him that I could not, because I had other business to take up my time. In the afternoon at, the office again, where we had many things to sign; and I went to the Council Chamber, and there got my Lord to sign the first bill, and the rest all myself; but received no money today. After I had signed all, I went with Dick Scobell and Luellin to drink at a bottle beer house in the Strand, and after staying there a while (had sent W. Hewer (age 18) home before), I took boat and homewards went, and in Fish Street bought a Lobster, and as I had bought it I met with Winter and Mr. Delabarr, and there with a piece of sturgeon of theirs we went to the Sun Tavern, Fish Street Hill [Map] in the street and ate them. Late home and to bed.
Pepy's Diary. 26 Apr 1662. At Southampton we went to the Mayor's and there dined, and had sturgeon of their own catching the last week, which do not happen in twenty years, and it was well ordered. They brought us also some caveare, which I attempted to order, but all to no purpose, for they had neither given it salt enough, nor are the seedes of the roe broke, but are all in berryes. The towne is one most gallant street, and is walled round with stone, &c., and Bevis's picture upon one of the gates; many old walls of religious houses, and the key, well worth seeing.
Pepy's Diary. 11 May 1662. Lord's Day. To our church in the morning, where, our Minister being out of town, a dull, flat Presbiter preached. Dined at home, and my wife's brother with us, we having a good dish of stewed beef of Jane's own dressing, which was well done, and a piece of sturgeon of a barrel sent me by Captain Cocke (age 45). In the afternoon to White Hall; and there walked an hour or two in the Park, where I saw the King (age 31) now out of mourning, in a suit laced with gold and silver, which it was said was out of fashion.
Pepy's Diary. 13 Jun 1663. Up and betimes to Thames Street among the tarr men, to look the price of tarr and so by water to Whitehall thinking to speak with Sir G. Carteret (age 53), but he lying in the city all night, and meeting with Mr. Cutler the merchant, I with him in his coach into the city to Sir G. Carteret, but missing him there, he and I walked to find him at Sir Tho. Allen's in Bread Street, where not finding him he and I walked towards our office, he discoursing well of the business of the Navy, and particularly of the victualling, in which he was once I perceive concerned, and he and I parted and I to the office and there had a difference with Sir W. Batten (age 62) about Mr. Bowyer's tarr, which I am resolved to cross, though he sent me last night, as a bribe, a barrel of sturgeon, which, it may be, I shall send back, for I will not have the King (age 33) abused so abominably in the price of what we buy, by Sir W. Batten's corruption and underhand dealing.
Pepy's Diary. 16 Jul 1663. Up and dispatched things into the country and to my father's, and two keggs of sturgeon and a dozen bottles of wine to Cambridge for my cozen Roger Pepys (age 46), which I give him.
Pepy's Diary. 23 May 1664. Towards noon I and my wife by water to Woolwich, Kent [Map], leaving my wife at Mr. Falconer's, and Mr. Hater and I with some officers of the yard on board to see several ships how ready they are. Then to Mr. Falconer's to a good dinner, having myself carried them a vessel of sturgeon and a lamprey pie, and then to the Yarde again, and among other things did at Mr. Ackworth's obtain a demonstration of his being a knave; but I did not discover it, till it be a little more seasonable.
Pepy's Diary. 22 May 1667. So home and to set down in writing the state of the account, and then to supper, and my wife to her flageolet, wherein she did make out a tune so prettily of herself, that I was infinitely pleased beyond whatever I expected from her, and so to bed. This day coming from Westminster with W. Batten (age 66), we saw at White Hall stairs a fisher-boat, with a sturgeon that he had newly catched in the River; which I saw, but it was but a little one; but big enough to prevent my mistake of that for a colt, if ever I become Mayor of Huntingdon!1
Note 1. During a very high flood in the meadows between Huntingdon [Map] and Godmanchester, something was seen floating, which the Godmanchester people thought was a black pig, and the Huntingdon [Map] folk declared it was a sturgeon; when rescued from the waters, it proved to be a young donkey. This mistake led to the one party being styled "Godmanchester black pigs", and the other "Huntingdon [Map] sturgeons", terms not altogether forgotten at this day. Pepys's colt must be taken to be the colt of an ass. B.
Culture, General Things, Food and Drink, Food, Seafood, Fish, Sturgeon, Caviar
Pepy's Diary. 26 Apr 1662. At Southampton we went to the Mayor's and there dined, and had sturgeon of their own catching the last week, which do not happen in twenty years, and it was well ordered. They brought us also some caveare, which I attempted to order, but all to no purpose, for they had neither given it salt enough, nor are the seedes of the roe broke, but are all in berryes. The towne is one most gallant street, and is walled round with stone, &c., and Bevis's picture upon one of the gates; many old walls of religious houses, and the key, well worth seeing.
On 12 May 1771 Adolph Frederick King Sweden (age 60) died in Stockholm apparently after having consumed a large meal, consisting of lobster, caviar, sauerkraut, kippers and champagne, topped off with 14 servings of his favourite dessert: hetvägg, made of semla pastries served in bowls of hot milk.
Gustav III King Sweden (age 25) succeeded King Sweden. Queen Sophia of Sweden (age 24) by marriage Queen Sweden.
Culture, General Things, Food and Drink, Food, Seafood, Fish, Tench
Pepy's Diary. 14 Sep 1665. And, lastly, that both my servants, W. Hewer (age 23) and Tom Edwards, have lost their fathers, both in St. Sepulchre's parish, of the plague this week, do put me into great apprehensions of melancholy, and with good reason. But I put off the thoughts of sadness as much as I can, and the rather to keep my wife in good heart and family also. After supper (having eat nothing all this day) upon a fine tench of Mr. Shelden's taking, we to bed.