Europe, British Isles, North-Central England, Lincolnshire, Stamford, Burghley House

Burghley House is in Stamford [Map].

In 1555 William Cecil 1st Baron Burghley (age 34) built at Burghley House.

Evelyn's Diary. 14 Aug 1654. I took a journey into the Northern parts, riding through Oakham, a pretty town in Rutlandshire, famous for the tenure of the Barons (Ferrers), who hold it by taking off a shoe from every nobleman's horse that passes with his lord through the street, unless redeemed with a certain piece of money. In token of this, are several gilded shoes nailed up on the castle gate, which seems to have been large and fair. Hence, we went by Brook, a very sweet seat and park of the old Lady Camden's. Next, by Burleigh House, belonging to the Duke of Buckingham, and worthily reckoned among the noblest seats in England, situate on the brow of a hill, built à la moderne near a park walled in, and a fine wood at the descent.

Evelyn's Diary. 29 Nov 1683. Mr. Forbes showed me the plot of the garden making at Burleigh, at my Lord Exeter's, which I looked on as one of the most noble that I had seen.

Evelyn's Diary. 07 Apr 1695. Lord Halifax (deceased) died suddenly at London, the day his daughter (age 18) was married to the Earl of Nottingham's (age 61) son (age 22) at Burleigh. Lord H. was a very rich man, very witty, and in his younger days somewhat positive.

Evelyn's Diary. 11 Mar 1705. An exceedingly dry season. Great loss by fire, burning the outhouses and famous stable of the Earl of Nottingham (age 57), at Burleigh [Rutlandshire], full of rich goods and furniture, by the carelessness of a servant. A little before, the same happened at Lord Pembroke's (age 49), at Wilton. The old Countess of Northumberland (age 82), Dowager of Algernon Percy, Admiral of the fleet to King Charles I., died in the 83d year of her age. She was sister to the Earl of Suffolk, and left a great estate, her jointure to descend to the Duke of Somerset (age 42).

Georgian Memoirs. In 1810, he painted a picture of the death of Richard the Second in Pomfret Castle [Map], in which the costume of the period was strictly adhered to, and the portrait of Richard taken from his effigy in Westminster Abbey. It was received with unanimous approbation upon its exhibition at Somerset House, and indicated superior talents, in the artist, for historical painting. This branch of his art, however, he was also induced to forego, in consequence of an attachment he had formed with a Miss Kempe (age 19), to whom he was subsequently married. A more lucrative mode of occupation than that of historical portrait painting, had suggested itself to him as far back as the year 1802, when he accompanied his father to Burleigh House, the seat of the Marquess of Exeter. Mr. Stothard, senior (age 54), was employed to decorate the staircase of this mansion; and, whilst thus occupied, observed to his son, it would be to his future advantage, to fill up his time, by making drawings from the monuments in the neighbouring churches, as useful authorities for costume. His son followed his advice, and thus received the first bias of his mind towards a subject which he now resolved to make his pursuit. The hint for the design, which he afterwards carried into effect, was first given him by a sight of some very clever unpublished etchings, by the Rev. P. Kerrich, of Cambridge, from monuments in the Dominicans and other churches in Paris. This suggested to him the idea of a work on The Monumental Effigies of Great Britain, of which the first number appeared in June, 1811, accompanied by an advertisement, stating that the objects of the undertaking were to afford the historical painter a complete knowledge of the costume adopted in England, from an early period of history to the reign of Henry the Eighth; to illustrate, at the same time, history and biography; and, lastly, to assist the stage in selecting its costume with propriety, for the plays of our great dramatic bard. Such a work was, undoubtedly, a great desideratum; for, whatever information is to be derived from Mr. Gough's writings, in his voluminous publication of the same kind, the delineating part, as Mr. Stothard observes, in an essay found after his death, is so extremely incorrect and full of errors, that, at a future period, when the originals no longer exist, it will be impossible to form any correct idea of what they really were.

Introduction. In 1802 he accompanied his father to Burleigh, the seat of the Marquis of Exeter, the grand staircase of which the latter was employed in decorating by his masterly pencil. Mr. Stothard senior, suggested to his son that he might fill up his time by making drawings of the monuments in the neighbouring churches, as useful authorities for designing costume. This circumstance gave the first bias of Mr. Charles Stothard's mind towards the subject which afterwards became his pursuit.

Adeline Horsey Recollections. Allan Fea, in his interesting book, "Nooks and Corners of Old England", describes how, "some time before the poor little plain Duchess (of Buckingham) suspected that she had a formidable rival in the beautiful Countess, she was returning from a visit to Deene [Map] to her house at Stamford, where her reckless husband found it convenient to hide himself, as a warrant for high treason was out against him, when she noticed a suspicious little cavalcade travelling in the same direction. Ordering the horses to be whipped up, she arrived in time to give the alarm. The Duke had just then set out for Burleigh House with some ladies in his company, and the serjeant actually saw the Duke alight and lead a lady into the house, but he and his soldiers were not in time to force an entrance, and so the Duke escaped!".

Diary of Caroline Girlie. In one of those delightful morns when Nature is decked in every pleasing ornament we quitted the tumultuous scene, left all the pomp and grandeur of the great Metropolis for prospects more serenely gay, blended with every elegant simplicity of rural charms. The variegated objects that now presented themselves to view were, as Milton finely expresses it- "Hill, dale, and shady woods, and sunny plains, And liquid copse of murmuring streams; by these Creatures that liv'd, and woo'd, and walk'd, or flew, Birds on the branches warbling, all things smil'd With fragrance, and with joy my heart o'erflowed." I've so great a partiality for the country that I could not help inserting here the above five lines of this celebrated author, in which he gives one so strong an idea of its several beauties, but I digress no longer, and resume the subject of our journey. In the county of Hertford, about twenty-four miles from London, is a town called Hatfield. Our route being before fixed, this was the place we proposed to breakfast at. While there, travellers being generally desirous to view each object that is deemed curious, we went to see a monument in the church in memory of the first Earl of Salisbury, which we were told was worth seeing. It was so, being of statuary marble and kept extremely neat. Formerly a royal palace added lustre to this town, at which Edward VI was brought up and educated. We that day dined at Baldock1, drank tea at Eton2 in Bedfordshire, and by eight in the evening got to Bugden3 in Huntingdonshire; in the time necessary for preparing supper we went to take an outside view of an old palace now belonging to the Bishop of Lincoln. It appears to have been a fine building, and place of great security, by the height of its surrounding walls, with a moat and drawbridge, to prevent at pleasure any one's approach. After our walk we again returned to our inn. The next morn we breakfasted at Stilton4, and proposed taking Burleigh Hall in our way to Stamford, tho' we feared obtaining a sight of it, the present Lord having not long been in possession. The whole was then repairing, and we had been told he was not fond of strangers seeing it while it bore so ruinous an appearance. However, we were more fortunate than we expected, for as we were walking in the gardens, standing still on a nearer approach to 1757 the house (which seems almost of itself a little town), Lord Exeter1 happened to be overlooking his work-men, and reading, as I suppose, curiosity in our countenances, politely asked if the ladies chose to see it, our reply being in the affirmative, he himself informed us where was the most easy entrance. The rooms are spacious and lofty, the staircase grand, which with many apartments, the late Earl's closet, the ceilings, hall, chapel, &c, are all painted by Vario6, whom his Lordship kept twelve years in his family, wholly employ'd in them (allowing him a coach, horses, servants, a table, and considerable pension). The front towards the garden is the most ancient and noble structure that can be imagined. Indeed, from wherever you see it, the towers, pinnacles, and large spire over the centre give it an air too grand to be described by pen. The whole is of freestone. 'Twas built by Sir William Cecil in the time of Elizabeth. He was afterwards by her created Baron Burleigh. There are many good pictures, but then not hung up as intended to be. Having spent some time in seeing Burleigh Hall, we proceeded on to Stamford, a town in Northamptonshire, about a mile distant. We went thro' part of Rutlandshire. That afternoon drank tea at Colesworth7, and got to Grantham, in Lincolnshire, that night. The next day, being Sunday, we propos'd staying at the above place till Monday morn. The church8 at Grantham (at which we were twice on Sunday), is a Gothic structure deserving observation, and would have made a very fine appearance, had they not concealed it from view by other buildings till one is within a few steps of the grand entrance. This for the honour of the town is rather unfortunate, as 'tis eclipsing its only beauty. In the evening we went to Belton House, the seat of Lady Cust. 'Tis nothing more than a good family house. Two things relative to it we were desired to remember, viz., that the original of sash windows was at the erecting of this edifice in Charles I's time; the second, that from a temple in the garden called Belle Mount you may see seven counties at once, a thing from one spot thought very remarkable. Having stayed pretty late at Belton, we only got back just at supper-time, and early next day quitted Grantham, breakfasted at Newark, Nottinghamshire, an ancient and neat town situated on the Trent; formerly, though now ruinous, there was a castle there, built by Alexander, Bishop of Lincoln9. We dined at Carlton, drank tea at Tadcaster10. From this place we had nine miles only to go before we reached a city so famous that our expectations had form'd an idea of a place that would almost equal the grand Metropolis; but, York, I must depreciate you so far as to give it as my opinion that by many degrees you merit not the title of the least resemblance. We entered its gates about seven in the evening, not an hour so late (at this season) as to give the city the dull aspect it then seem'd to wear; but we had a reason assigned to us for this, that I believe might be a just one, viz., that in summer all the principal inhabitants retire into the country. However to us it appeared a most indifferent town. 'Tis situated on the confluence of the Ouse and Foss rivers, and reckon'd a wholsom and clear air. The streets 1757 (hardly deserving such an appellation), are extremely narrow, the houses seemingly very indifferent, and indeed the whole city, three things excepted (viz. the Cathedral, Castle, and Assembly Room), a perfect contrast to what we thought it had been. The Minster is indeed a building curiously magnificent. I think it surpasses, at least on the outside, Westminster Abbey. 'Twas rebuilt in the reign of Stephen, having been burnt down with the whole city before the Conquest. The carving in stone is excessively fine, and what with the solemnity of the structure, joined to that of the organ, which at our entrance was playing, I think I never experienced a more pleasing awful satisfaction than at the first view of this noble Cathedral. From hence we went to the Castle. 'Tis now a prison, and may be styl'd a grand one, the felons having a large place by day allotted for them in the open air, a liberty at other places they have not room to allow these wretches. We saw above forty then there. The sight of so many unhappy objects greatly depress'd us, tho', strange as it appeared, but one, of so great a number had a countenance even seemingly dejected, nor look'd as if they felt for themselves, what even our pity for their supposed distress made us experience. Having staid at the Castle a very short time, we went next to the Assembly Room, the third and last place worthy our notice. 'Tis in form an Egyptian Hall; its dimensions 112 feet by 40, and 30 in height; the seats crimson damask, and all the furniture quite in taste, and 'tis called the completest ball-room in England. By Wednesday noon we had gone over the renown'd city. It was, it seems, before it was burnt down almost four times as large as at present. We quitted it about six on Wednesday evening, proposing in our way to Malton that night to see the seat of Lord Carlisle. Castle Howard11 is fifteen miles distant from York; the situation pleasing. The house is of vast extent (340 feet), and makes a fine appearance at the distance, but I think the rooms in general too small, though in the wing now building there seems by the plan some fine apartments to be intended. The whole is of stone, the furniture is magnificent, and there are many curiosities that my Lord12 brought over with him fifteen years since from Italy and other countries, such as pictures, busts, figures of oriental alabaster, and above thirty different sorts of Egyptian marbles, with other things too numerous to mention, as valuable as ornamental, having a fine effect as one passes through the several apartments. The house stands in a wood; the park is a very fine one; in that is a grand mausoleum, but it was unfortunately too late for our walking to it, as the evening drew on before we had hardly seen the house. We lay at Malton, five miles from thence, break-fasted next at Yettingham, and so on to Scarborough. 'Tis impossible to conceive a sweeter prospect than one has of this town when at about half a mile distant. The ruins of a fine old-castle on a prodigious eminence forms a most pleasing point of view, the town seemingly scatter'd on the brow of the same hill to complete its beauty, and the sea at a small distance terminates the whole. We got there about two; after adapting our dress to that of a public place, call'd on some friends then there, who shew'd us the 1757 rooms, inform'd us of the customs of the place, and made the short time we stay'd pass most agreeably. In the evening we walked up to the Castle, but the fogg was so great from the sea as totally to hinder the extensive view they assured us the immense height afforded. About a mile from the town is their famous medicinal springs13, said to partake of the different qualities of vitriol, alum, iron, nitre, and salt. The company meet here before breakfast to drink the waters. The next morning we were of the group in this agreeable walk on the sands, though fatiguing to invalids, as from the town one descends above a hundred steps. At the Spaw is two rooms, one call'd the gentleman's, the other the ladies', and a terrass commanding a most delightful prospect. At our return to our lodgings we found Mr. and Mrs. Handley, but had their company only for that evening, tho' some hopes of again meeting in Yorkshire. As we left Scarborough the following day, lay at Whittwell, the morning after breakfasted at York, dined at Ferry Bridge, where Mr. Pem. Milnes and Miss Slater met us to conduct us to the house of the former at Wakefield, the end of our intended tour for the present, as we were there to meet our friend Mrs. Hooper, and had promised to spend a month with her in visiting her nieces, the two Mrs. Milnes. She was got there a day or two before us, and we arrived just as the family were sitting down to supper. We had great pleasure in the meeting after a very long absence, and spent our time most agreeably during our stay, tho' we could have wished not quite so much visiting as we were obliged to give way to. A few days after we came, my father went with the gentlemen to Lord Rockingham's, and returned vastly pleased with his visit, which was two days, and with Wentworth House. Another day they took him to dine at Sir Roland Whin's. We went one day to Westerton, Mr. Birt's, a gentleman of large fortune, who has since bought and rebuilt in a superb manner Wenvo Castle, in Glamorganshire-I hear a most delightful spot. I cannot say as much for Westerton, or village, surrounded by coal-yards; but as sinking these pits raised Wenvo Castle, neither Mr. Birt or his family, I dare say, think them odious. 'We had the curiosity to walk and take a near outside view of one seventy yards deep. The manner they work them is strange, and not a little dangerous, as they are obliged to have candles, and sometimes with a roof so low that the men dig on their knees. This in a place where there is nothing but coal makes it surprising there is not frequent accidents. They have two boxes which are alternately pulled up and down by pullies worked by a horse, which goes round and round in a sort of a well. In short, the whole process is curiously frightful, and yet Mr. Birt told us many ladies even venture down the pits to see the entire manner of it. This I think one should rather be excused.

Note 1 A market-town fifteen miles north-west from Hertford.

Note 2 Eaton-Socon.

Note 3. Buckden, once a favourite residence of the Bishops of Lincoln; granted to them by Abbot of Ely, temp. Henry I.

Note 4. Stilton gave its name to the famous cheese, first made by Mrs. Paulet of Wymondham, Leicestershire, who sold it to Cooper Thornhill of the Bell Inn there: now made in Leicestershire.

Note 5. Brownlow, ninth Earl of Exeter.

Note 6. Antonio Verrio, celebrated painter, time of Charles II.

Note 7. Colsterworth; Sir Isaac Newton born there.

Note 8. Dedicated to St. Wulfram; a church here before the Conquest.

Note 9 Time of King Stephen.

Note 10. Ancient market-town in West Riding.

Note 11. Castle Howard, built about 1702 by Sir John Vanbrugh for Charles, third Earl of Carlisle.

Note 12. Henry, fourth Earl of Carlisle.

Note 13. There are two springs. They consist of carbonate and sulphates of lime and magnesia, not vitriol.

Prodigy House. A large house built in the Tudor, Elizabethan and Jacobean periods defined by their use of glass. Prodigy houses include: Longford Castle, Wiltshire [Map], Wollaton Hall, Longleat House, Burghley House, Hatfield House, Hertfordshire and Hardwick Hall [Map].