The Ancient History of Wiltshire Volume 2 Chapter 3 Station X Marlborough

The Ancient History of Wiltshire Volume 2 Chapter 3 Station X Marlborough is in The Ancient History of Wiltshire Volume 2 Chapter 3 Swindon and Calne.

STATION X. MARLBOROUGH.

BEFORE we recommence our Antiquarian Iter, I request the attention of my readers to the Map of the Marlborough Station, which is rich both in British as well as Roman vestiges of antiquity. They will observe the fine vale before mentioned that separates North from South Wiltshire, and they will notice, on the bold pro. jecting edges of the chalk hills on each side of the vale, very numerous remains of British towns, camps, religious circles, They will perceive the disLinct course of two Roman roads, which meet each other at the Station of CUNETTO on the river Kennet, and they will observe the large extended line of that stupendous boundary called WANsnrrcH, which traverses the whole breadth of our county, and extends from Somersetshire into Berkshire.

The most natural connexion that I can form between the. Northern and Southern districts of our county, will be from that ridge of hills in South Wiltshire, which corresponds with those in North Wiltshire, both in appearance, strata, and antiquities; and I am principally inclined to adopt this mode of connexion, as, I have strong reason to suppose, that it was the same made use of by the Britons. In their days of primitive simplicity and pastoral habits, we must not look for the elevated, straight lined causeway, such as at a later period, was adopted by the Roman engineers; but we must ascend the heights Of the chalk hills, and there we shall find the roads of communication made use of between the different British clans; and by tracing their several directions on the general Map of this division of our county, we shall at once perceive chat they were the lines of communication from one British village to another.

I have already, in my History of South Wiltshire, mentioned a grand British track-way skirting the Northern ridge of the chalk hills from Redhorn turnp.ike, on the road between Salisbury and Devizes, to the vale of Avon; and from the texture of the ground, and other existing circumstances, I am inclined to think, that the ancient trackuway descended from this line of hills in its passage towards the opposite ridge, somewhere near a very old and mutilated earthen work called Broadbury. I shall therefore fix upon this spot as the linc of communication between the Southern and Northern districts of Wiltshire. This ridge way, and earthen work, are marked on the Map of Amesbury, Station V. and continued on that annexed to the Station of Marlborough.

ITER 1. My researches into the Northern district of were cormmenced from Everley on the seventh dav of June 1814. In my way to the vale of Avon, I noticed a handsome church of freestone, newly erected by Francis Dugdale Astlev, Esquire, co accommodate the parishes of East and West Everley, on which account it has been placed at equal distances from each.

Passing the village of Charlton, and the seat of Sir John Methuen Poore (age 66), Bart., continued along the turnpike road until I came nearly opposite to the works of Broadbury, situated on the point of a hill to my left. I then diveroed to the village of Marden; a place little known, even to antiquaries, but deserving of that general notice, which I hope to give it, A broad, and apparently old raised causeway, directed my course to this village where a large mound of earth, vulgarly called HATFIELD BARROW [Map], was the principal object of my attraction and inquiry. 1 had more than once visited this interesting relict of British antiquity, and in company with Mr. Cunnington and his pioneers, made a laborious but unsuccessful attack upon this huge pile, of which I shall hereafter relate the particulars.

The British works [Marden Henge aka Hatfield Earthworks [Map]] which now claim our attention, consist of a deep ditch and bank, having its vallum on the outside of the ditch, and enclosing within its area one tumulus of very large dimensions and another differing in its form, and smaller in its proportions; the interior of this area comprehends fifty-one acres of land, which are intersected by hedges, and in cultivation. For a better explanation of this interesting assemblage of British antiquities, I must request my readers to refer to the annexed Plate I. No. 2, in which their relative situation is accurately laid down. Passing the rivulet at Marden mill, and following the road, which leads through these works, to the village of Beauchamp Stoke, I observed a plantation to my left at A, where the earthen agger evidently appears, and continues with little interruption to B, assuming a circular form at first, but afterwards contracting itself to an angle at a point where it is intersected by the aforesaid road; at C, it approaches the large barrow, and pursuing an irregular course, terminates abruptly in the water meadows at D, but points evidently to some high ground on the other side of them at E. This circumstance, owing to the sudden disappearance of the bank and ditch at D, has caused much debate and inquiry amongst us. Mr. Cunnington was of opinion that the bank did not cross the brook, but proceeded in a line from A towards D; but the Rev. Mr. Charles Mayo, residing at Beauchamp Stoke, whose father first took notice of these works, after a frequent and very minute investigation of this ground, thought otherwise, and was dccidedly of opinion, that the original vallum extended across the present1 water meadows to the high ground marked E. E. E. E. Some ingenious remarks which he kindly communicated to me by letter, induced us to re-examine the ground very minutely with my surveyor and draughtsman, Mr. Philip Crocker, and we were both of opinion that Mr. Mayo was right in his conjectures respecting both the direction and extent of this bank and ditch. On examining the southern circumvallation of this earthen work, we were struck with the singularity of that part of the works marked F, which appeared as if intended for an approach or entrance into the area of the circle; and this idea was in a great degree corroborated by the circumstance of our discovering the sile of a British village on some high ground not far distant.2

Note 1. I say present, because I doubt much if any existed io the tera of the Britons, and perhaps only a vcry inconsiderablc stream, whic.h in mocc modern times may possibly have been enlarged, if not conducted hither for the benefit of the mill.

Note 2. A great deal of British pottery bas been found in the fields on this side of the works.

John Methuen Poore 1st Baronet: In 1745 he was born to Edward Poore. In 1820 he died. His great nephew Edward Poore 2nd Baronet succeeded 2nd Baronet Poore of Rushall in Wiltshire. Agnes Marjoribanks Lady Poore by marriage Lady Poore of Rushall in Wiltshire.

Having described the exterior or these works, let us endeavour to investigate the interior of this circle; for, though irregular, and not exactly corresponding with that form, I conclude it was intended by its rude constructors to designate a circle. Such also was Abury; though, when I come to treat of those remains, it will be seen that there is an irregularity in that form also, though equally intended to represent a circle: but in Stonehenge, a work of a later and more civilized period, the circle is complete in its plan and measurement.

The large round barrow [Hatfield Barrow [Map]], being the most prominent feature within the area, claims our first attention. Neither labour nor expense has been spared in endeavouring to ascertain the original purpose for which this immense mound was raised; but each has failed, and full scope is still left conjecture. As that may in some degree be assisted by a full statement of facts attending the operations of our spade, I shall here insert them from our journal of the year 1809.

The enormous tumulus witl-ün this work, called HATFIELD BARROW [Map], is situated on the East side of the area; it is of a circular form, and has a deep and wide ditch around it, which in winter is nearly full of water, although the soil consists of a greenish sand. From having been some time in tillage, the height is probably decreased some feet; its elevation above the floor of the barrow (viz. the original soil) is at present twenty-two leet and a half: the area, within the circum. vallation, supposing the works perfect, would amount to fifty-one acres.

We began our operations by making a large square opening in the centre, but the tumulus being composed of sand, which continuallv slipped down, we afterwards canied our section in the form of an inverted cone. When at the depth of about twenty-two lee! on the cast side of the section, and eighteen on the west side, we came to the bottom of the barrow, but from the heavy masses of sancl that still continued to slip down, several days elapsed beforc we could clear the space of about twentyethree by twenty-four feet of the floor, During the operation of digging, our discoveries where exactly similar (o those we have made in many other circular barrows where cremation has been practised. From the depth of two or three feet from the summit of the tumulus to the bottom, the men frequently met with charred wood, animal bones of red deer, swine, and those of a large bird, as well as two small parcels of burned human bones. Upon tile floor of the barrow, we found charred wood scattered over the part that we cleared, and in one place, where there were large quantities of charred wood, we picked up some small pieces of human burned bones; and as similar circumstances often occur in barrows where burning has been practised, we concluded that in this spot the body of the person here interred. was consumed, and that herc his remains were gathered up, to be finally deposited in a cist, or under the shelter of a sepulchral urn; and our anxiety as well as our hopes of information began rapidly to increase: but alas! notwithstanding all our energy and exertions, we were doomed to remain in ignorance respecting the original destination of this gigantic barrow; and fortunately had not (added to our disappointment) to regret the loss of several of our labourers, who most providentially escaped an untimely end by having been called off from their work by Mr. Cunnington, at a time when the soil of the barrow appeared sound, but proved otherwise, by falling in very shortly after the men had quitted their labours.

Mr. Cunnington was of opinion that this mound was sepulchral, but from the discoveries we made in digging down from the summit to the floor, I do not think he found a sufficient basis to support his hypothesis. YVith respect to its high antiquity, and being the work of our British ancestors, no doubt can be entere tamed; and its situation about midway between Stonehenge and Abury, with the vicinity of a British trackway, seems to indicate an intermediate connexion with those two grand sanctuaries.

Although I have so frequently agreed in opinion with Mr. Cunnington upon British topics, I cannot justify myself in coalescing with him respecting the sepulchral origin of this tumulus, though I think it may have been devoted to religious as well as civil purposes. It may probably have been either a Hill Altar, or a locus consecratus, ac which the Druids attended to decide various causes, and issue their decrees; such which are described by Cæsar as existing in Gaul.

"Ii (Druides) certo anni tempore in finibus Carnutum, quæ regio totius Callie media habetur, considunt in loco consccrafo. Huc omnes unique qui controversias habeut, conveniunt, eorumque judiciis decretisquc parent. Disciplina in Britannié reperta, atque inde in Galliam translata esse existimatur," &c.

Once in every year the Druids assemble at consecrated place in the territory of the Carnutes, whose country is supposed to be situated in the centre of Gaul. Hither such as have my suits depending, resort from all parts, and submit implicitly to the decrees of the Druids. Their institution is said to have come originally from Britain, frorn whence it passed into Gaul,"

That this enclosure was not destined for military purposes, the circumstance of the ditch being placed within the vallum, most satisfactorily proves; and we can never imaoine that so laborious an earthen work could have been constructed merely to protect a mound raised over the body of a simple individual. In the ditch and valium we perceive a resemblance to the orander temple at Abury; and a huge tumulus supplies, witllin the area, the place of a stone temple, for here nature has not produced that material, which is so abundant in the immediate neighbourhood of Abury. I am therefore incGned to think that this barrow was designed for an hill altar, or a place of general assembly, not a sepulchre; and the numerous remains of the horns and bones of men, birds, and beasts, which have been discovered within the barrow, and area of the earthenworks, seem to corroborate this opinions.1

Within the area of this entrenchment, and further towards the south, there is another small earthen work, which deserves our notice; its form is circular, and its diameter one hundred and ninety-eight feet; its vallum is slightly raised, and the interior rises gradually to a low apex. In digging within the area, we round a few bits of old pottery, and a little charred wood, but no marks of any interment. Its elegant form has been much defaced by tillage, and soon will probably be entirely lost.2

Note 1. Mr. Mayo informs me, that in levclling a part of the bank, a very considerable quantity of stags' horns and bones were found, and the skeleton of a man, deposited about four feet beneath the surface. This circumstance seems to prove that the spot was made use of as a place of sacrifice previous to raising the earthen valium.

Note 2. On revisiting this ground in the autumn ofthe year 1818, I had the unexpectcd mortification to find, that the great barrow had been completely levelled to the ground, and no signs remained of its previous existence.

BRITISH TRACKWAY

The names of Broad Sheet, and Honey Street, as well as an opening formed by nature in the ridge of hills, point out to us the direction of the British track-way towards the high ground, which it begins to ascend a little beyond the village of Alton, where we perceive the figure of a horse, in the act of trotting, on the declivity of the downs, which was cut about four years ago by an inhabitant of Alton. On reaching the summit of the hill, a new country, and an extensive range of verdant down, with numerous flocks of sheep, open to the view, and we find ourselves, on all sides, surrounded with vestiges of the Britons. The opening through which the track-way passes, is formed between two hills, the one bearing the name of Knap, the other of Walker's Hill; the former distinguished by a very ancient earthenwork on its summit; the latter by a very large long barrow. The vale through which the track-way now directs its course, is rendered interesting by the British remains which it presents in tumuli, and other earthen works; one of which, close to the side af the track-way, is very perfect: it is of a square form, and has a barrow within its area. On ascending the ridge of hills, the grand boundary called WANSDITCH, unexpectedly attracts our attention, and looking both North and South, the eye enjoys a most delightful prospect, and a very advantageous view of the sinuous line of the ridgeway from hill to hill, &c.1 We now descend along the sides of a steep hill towards East Kennet, leaving a large long barrow upon an eminence to the left, and crossing the river Kennet, proceeded to Overton down, where I reached the limits prescribed to this Station, and continued my journey to Marlborough on the turnpike road. The once memorable field, adjoining the eastern boundary of Overton down, and well known, in former days, by the title of the Grey Wethers, now presents the unbroken surface of a verdant meadow, without one stone to mark its ancient title. In my younger days it had been pointed out to me as a curiosity; and two or three years ago, I witnessed the breaking of the last stone in the field. But the traveller, whose curiosity does not tempt him to make any unnecessary deviation from the turnpike road, may form a competent idea of what the former Grey Wether field originally was, though upon a much larger scale, by looking at one adjoining thc left side of the road at the base of Overton hill.

Note 1. As the ancient track-ways of the Britons form an essential part of the antiquities connected with that people, and as that on which I am now travelling may be esteemed one of the most extensive in our island, I have thought fit to illustrate. it by two engravings, taken from this point; the one looking south- wards towards Salisbury; the other northwards towards Berkshire. See Plate II.

Mr. Letheuillier very justly observes, are so uncertain, that they can be little depended upon; but as we find Leucomago, Cunetzione, and Punctuobice standing together, and if we agree that Cunetzione is the Cunetio of the Roman Itineraries, it seems not very reasonable to look for these other two at so great a distance as Mr. Horsley has placed them, namely, in Glamorganshire.

Great Bedwin has certainly strong claims to Roman antiquity, for it had its villas or stations, as well as its Roman ways; all of which I shall endeavour to trace, when I treat of the Roman æra. Much also might be said of Wansditch, which traverses the whole length of this Station, and on quitting it at Prosperous Farm, enters the adjoining county of Berkshire; but as it is my intention to give a detailed account of its course through Somersetshire, as well as Wiltshire, I should be guilty of a needless repetition, were I to specify the particular portion of it that occurs during the present Iter.

Little more is now to be added to this Station, though many interesting relics, both of British and Roman antiquity, remain to be described in the immediate environs of the town of Marlborough; but as they do not come within the limits prescribed to this Station, they cannot with propriety be inserted. One remarkable earthen-work however, must not be passed over in silence. I allude to the mount [Marlborough Mound [Map]] within the gardens of the Castle Inn, a huge pile of earth, and inferior in proportions only to Silbury Hill [Map] near Abury, PLATE IV. No. 1. Each are situated on the river Kennet; the one near its source, the other near its margin; and I have no doubt but that in ancient times each had some corresponding connection with the other. In more modern times, when the present inn was the hospitable mansion of the Hertford farniiy, this stately mound was converted into a hill of pleasure: on the ground floor a cavern was excavated and ornamented as a grotto, with shell-work, &c.; the sides sliced down so as to form a spiral walk around it, fenced with parapet hedges, and the summit crowned with a summer-house; of which, Dr. Stukeley has given a view in his Itinerarium Curiosum. Still, however, notwithstanding all these inappropriate decorations, it assumes an imposing appearance, This mound has been so mutilated, as well as lowered in its height, that it is impossible to calculate an exact measurement of either its circumference or height; but as nearly as we could guess by a trial with our chains, wc found the base to be about one-thousand feet in circumference, and the diameter of the summit one-hundred and ten feet.

... title of Ashbury Camp, or King Alfred's Castle, by which it is still distinguished. q his ealthen-work is situated close to the western boundary of Ashdown park paling, and at a very short distance from the mansion-house. It forms an irregular circie, is single ditched, has one entrance towards the south, another towards the north, and comprehends within the ramparts an area of two acres and three quarters. Near the centre of the enclosure, are some slight banks which indicate buildings or earthen-works within it.

Having satisfied my curiosity on this spot, I traversed a fine tract of down, and passing near a tenement which still bears the name of Thick Thorn farm1, I regained the line of the British ridge-way, when a square enclosure, very properly called the FOLLY by a neighbouring shepherd, when I made inquiry concerning Wayland Smith2, indicated the site of the object of my research.

This curious monument of British antiquity, distinguished in modern times by so ridiculous a title, stands at a short distance from the ridge-way, and on its left side. It was one of those long barrows, which we meet with occasionally, having a kistvaen of stones within it, to protect the place of interment. Four large stones of a superior size and height to the rest: were placed before the entrance to the adit, two on each side; these now lie prostrate on the ground one of these measures ten, and another eleven feet in height; they are rude and unhewn, like those at Abury. A line of stones, though of much smaller proportions, encircled the head of the barrow, of which I noticed four standing in their original position; the corresponding four on the opposite side have been displaced. The stones which formed the adit or avenue still remain, as well as the large incumbent stone which covered the kistvaen, and which measures ten feet by nine, I have had occasion to remark in a former part of my work, that one side of the long barrows almost invariably pointed towards the east; and that here, on digging, we always had found the sepulchral deposit; but in this instance, this barrow deviates from thc general ltlle, by pointing north and south; yet stilt the kistvaen is placed towards the east. ne avenue at first goes straight from south to north, then turns abruptly to the east, where we find the kistvaen.

Note 1. More will be said of this thorn-tree hereafter.

Note 2. A ridiculous name given to a British monument or very high antiquity. Mr. Wise, in his letter to Dr. Mead, concerning some antiquities in Berkshire (page 37), says that according to vulgar report, "at this place lived an invisible smith, and if a traveller's horse had lost a shoe upon the road, he had no more to do, than to bring the horse to this place, with a piece of money, and leaving both there for some little time, he might come again and find the money gone, but the horse new shod."

Proceeding dong the line of the ridgeway, a high point of land, distinguished by strong ramparts, now attracts our attention: and on reaching the summit of the hill, we are gmatified by the appearance of a fine earthen-work of verdant turf uninjured by the plough, and affording from its ramparts a most interesting and it bears the the name of UFFINGTON CASTLE [Map] and is single comprehensive view ditched, having an entrance towards the south-west, and comprehending seven acres within its area. On the east side of this eminence is a very singular insulated knoll, which Mr. Wise, (page 46) denominates a barrow, undet the title of DRAGON HILL, and mentions some traditions concerning it, not worthy of our notice. I cannot consider this hill as entirely artificial, and thrown up like Silbury, but it appears to me that a part of the upper ridge has been cut away in order to form it. On the northern side of this hill, the rude figure of a horse has been traced in the chalk, from which circumstance an extensive valley running through Berkshire, has gained the appellation of the VALE WHITE HORSE.1 The Whitc horse was made use of the banner of the Saxons, and is described in the act of gallopping: it is supposed to have been cut on this hill in token of the signal victory gained by King Alfred over the Danes in the year 971.

Note 1. I conceive this to be the otiginal white horse its extreme rudeness. and incorrect outline seem to warrant this conjecture: there are others at Bratton, Calne, Marlborough, and Alton.

In various pms of Wiltshire this figure has been adopted; but besides the one just: mentioned, no other appears to have any claim to antiquity except that at. Bratton Castle, near Westbury, in Wiltshire, where the same illustrious monarch gained another decisive Victorv over the same enemy.1

Note 1. See Ancient History of South Wiltshire, page 55.

At a short distance from Uffington Castle. and nearer the base of the hill, another ancient earthen-work, mentioned also by Mr. Wise (page 22) under the name of HARDWELL CAMP. Its entrance is towards the south, and nearly opposite to that of Ullirvton; its area contains five acres. It is strongly guarded by the nature of the ground on the north-east side; and on the south-east, where it is most accessible, it is strengthened by a double valium. In this camp Mr. Wise supposes that King Ethelred lay the night before the engagement at Ashdown; but as there are three earthen, works in this immediate neighbourhood, and another (Letcombe) at no great distance to the east, it would be very difficult to affix to the contending armies their several posts. Respecting the battle itself, and its consequences, we tread upon more certain ground, having the undoubtcd authority of the learned Asserius, the biographer and contemporary of Alfred, who has recorded the following particulars of this important battle: "After two battles fought near Reading in Berkshire between the Pagans and the united forces of Æthercd the King of the West Saxons, and his brother Alfred, in the former of which the...